Gunsmoke, gambling and outlaws in Deadwood, South Dakota

Sunday morning we drove out of the Rockies, through Wyoming's prairie and into the Black Hills of South Dakota again,,, What a change of landscape! After the winding roads through the mountains with its colorful trees, the long drive on US 85 through the prairie was a bit boring. When we reached South Dakota, the Black Hills came in view, a pine-covered mountain range in the western park of the state, named by the Lakota Sioux: Pahá Sápa, "hills that are black".

Our destination of the day was Deadwood, a lawless town at the time it was founded, in 1876. At this time, thousands of prospectors came into the Deadwood Gulch. Thanks to the gold being found, it became a haven for fortune seekers and a massive number of miners, gamblers, and outlaws came into town. 

During the peak years, the tent-camp grew exponentially, attracting famous legends like Wild Bill Hickok and Calamity Jane. The  "boomtown" came to an abrupt halt in September 1879, when a devastating fire destroyed most of the town. But, other than in many other former gold rush towns, until today the Old West is alive in Deadwood. This town didn't die down thanks to a decision in 1989: then, legal gaming was allowed and the new tax revenue fueled the historic preservation of the town. Behind historic fassades nowadays gambling halls, saloons and restaurants are hidden. 

In Old Saloon No. 10 (below) Wild bill Hickock (left) met his end while playing cards. His murder Jack McCall was later on trial - both happenings are reenacted on a regular basis in town. James Butler Hickok (1837 –1876), was known for his life on the frontier as a soldier, scout, lawman, cattle rustler, gunslinger, gambler, showman and actor. Also, he was involved in many famous gunfights and Calamity Jane pretended to have been his great love - which he seriously denied all the time.

Deadwood is not really big, but "picturesque" and unique. With nearby Sturgis, Rapid City, Mount Rushmore and Crazy Horse Monument, it attracts a lot of visitors, among them many, many bikers. Since we arrived on a Sunday, it was not too busy anymore, but just the days before, Oktoberfest took place, a big event in town!

Monday morning's first stop: the historic brothel! Up until 1980, illegal sex work was active in Deadwood and largely ignored by law enforcement and police. "The world’s oldest profession" is the topic of "The Brothel Deadwood", a seriously instructive historic museum. 

The Shasta Rooms brothel recalls the story of more than 100 years. We were privileged and got a private tour on a monday through several rooms in this historic building on Main Street, nicely curated with a variety of period appropriate furnishings and accessories. 

There is the parlor from the late 1800s (above), followed by a series of four "working rooms" (below), each representing a different era: 1876-1900, 1920s, 1940s-1950s, and 1960s-1970s. We got to know what life was like for the women in this business during these times, visited the "madam's" office and bedroom and heard stories about the sex workers themselves, partly fascinating personalities.

 Next: Mt. Moriah Cemetery. This cemetery was occupied between 1876 and 1877 and contains Wild Bill Hickock's, Calamity Jane's and Seth Bullock's graves, plus many more, e.g. a Chinese or a Jewish section - both important groups of the population at the time. Plus, from the view point up on Mt. Moriah, we enjoyed the probably best view of Deadwood.

The Day of '76 Museum and Celebration was another place this morning, we didn't have seen during previous visits to Deadwood. Since the first celebration in 1924, the Days of '76 has grown into a legendary annual event with a historic parade and a PRCA (professional) rodeo. On a tour we got to know about the parade and the rodeo, but we also admired a remarkable collection of pioneer, cowboy, and American Indian artifacts, a unique firearms collection, and, the largest exhibit of authentic horse-drawn wagons, carriages, and stagecoaches, still used in the annual parade.Wished we once would have the chance to see the parade and the rodeo! Reminded us much of La Fiesta de los Vacqueros & Tucson Rodeo in Tucson/Arizona!

 

After lunch with our great guide of the morning, tourism rep Amanda, we had to leave town and drove on to Leed. More on that "sister City" and our drive through Spearfish Canyon tomorrow.