Freitag, 31. Oktober 2025

Taking a Trip down Memory Lane: Athens

A dozen times or even more we've been to Athens, starting in the 1980ies during studies of Classical Archeology. Since then, the city has improved considerably (for the first time in decades, the Parthenon on the Akropolis, left, is without scaffolding!). It's exciting, colorful, "hip", but, nevertheless, it's an exhausting, chaotic, loud city, full of contrasts: modern and ancient, decay and new developments, creativity and indifferent, here you got it all.

Fortunately, we had a full week this time to do research for an update of our Reise Know-How Athens CityTrip, but, nevertheless, we had a full itinerary! We only took public transport or walked (average 15 km/day), went to new museums, revisited old attractions, explored old and new neighborhoods to see the changes, and, met old friends from study times in Wurzburg. Both are archeologists with a PhD like us, but they still work in the field, Dimitra in Thessaloniki, Wanda in Athens. Haven't seen each other for 15-20 years and it was so much fun!
 
Below, a couple of Athens "impressions", photos without a whole lot of commentary or order. This time it's extremely hard to keep up with photos, notes, arrangements, etc., all done in the evening. So much to see, to research, to think about. Fortunately, we are staying in a nice little AirBnB apartment in Pankrati and are enjoying the superb weather: up to 25 deg C during the day, around 18 deg C in the morning and evening.  Makes it much more enjoyable!
Anafiotika - the cycladic workmen's neighborhood

There are many fantastic murals in Athens


 

Food would be a topic on its own: You get it all, from traditional and cheap to streetfood (like the gyros on the photo) to fancy-contemporary modern cuisine, like at Seychelles (right) in Metaxurgio.

Change of guards at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier at the Parliament
,,, more murals (above) and a little more chaos in this Monastiraki shop (below),,,
Attalos Stoa at the Ancient Greek Agora

The Acropolis Museum - spectacular!


Anafiotika - a cycladic village on the Acropolis slope

Heinrich Schliemann's mansion, Iliou Melathron, in downtown Athens, nowadays a great numismatic museum.  

Up we went below, to Lykabettos, one of Athens many hills. A bit strenuous, but worth the effort because of it's great views!


Café on Lykabettos - with a view, too!
Parthenon looks like being built oceanside!
 


Oct. 28 was "Ochi Day", the refusal of the Greek Nation in 1940 to take part in WW2 on the side of the Allied Forces (Italy, Germany). It's a national holiday and in Athens celebrated with a big parade of student and folklore groups.

Above, the view from the rooftop terrace of the new Maria Callas museum (a secret, still!). She was born in the U.S., returned to Athens with her Greek mother and lateron settled in Paris, Italy and NYC. A great personality, worth to do more research on ,,,
Little Mitropolis Church

 

Street scene in Psirri (left) - the probably most popular neighborhood right now, and, in the Plaka (below), more touristy.

Main axle of "New Town": Ermou Street with lots of shops and the Parliament at the end.


Zentralmarkt - Central Market:

More murals:


On Sunday the twice annual "Meet Market" - a fair of artists and artisans plus food vendors and a stage - took place at the Gazi/Technopolis. This former gas production site was transformed into a multi-purpose area with museum, cafés and event space.
The Kerameikos - mostly tombs and gravestones, temples and the Iera Odos, the main street in the old days went through, from outside the city walls into town. Unfortunately, the excavation site and the museum are "closed for renovations". Actually, only the access way to the museum is about to be newly paved,,,

Another first (above, right): The new Museum of Modern Greek Culture in the Plaka consisting of several historic houses and exhibitions to certain topics in each of them. Here the famous Athens shadow puppetery theater figures.

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