Freitag, 31. Oktober 2025

Taking a Trip down Memory Lane: Athens

A dozen times or even more we've been to Athens, starting in the 1980ies during studies of Classical Archeology. Since then, the city has improved considerably (for the first time in decades, the Parthenon on the Akropolis, left, is without scaffolding!). It's exciting, colorful, "hip", but, nevertheless, it's an exhausting, chaotic, loud city, full of contrasts: modern and ancient, decay and new developments, creativity and indifferent, here you got it all.

Fortunately, we had a full week this time to do research for an update of our Reise Know-How Athens CityTrip, but, nevertheless, we had a full itinerary! We only took public transport or walked (average 15 km/day), went to new museums, revisited old attractions, explored old and new neighborhoods to see the changes, and, met old friends from study times in Wurzburg. Both are archeologists with a PhD like us, but they still work in the field, Dimitra in Thessaloniki, Wanda in Athens. Haven't seen each other for 15-20 years and it was so much fun!
 
Below, a couple of Athens "impressions", photos without a whole lot of commentary or order. This time it's extremely hard to keep up with photos, notes, arrangements, etc., all done in the evening. So much to see, to research, to think about. Fortunately, we are staying in a nice little AirBnB apartment in Pankrati and are enjoying the superb weather: up to 25 deg C during the day, around 18 deg C in the morning and evening.  Makes it much more enjoyable!
Anafiotika - the cycladic workmen's neighborhood

There are many fantastic murals in Athens


 

Food would be a topic on its own: You get it all, from traditional and cheap to streetfood (like the gyros on the photo) to fancy-contemporary modern cuisine, like at Seychelles (right) in Metaxurgio.

Change of guards at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier at the Parliament
,,, more murals (above) and a little more chaos in this Monastiraki shop (below),,,
Attalos Stoa at the Ancient Greek Agora

The Acropolis Museum - spectacular!


Anafiotika - a cycladic village on the Acropolis slope

Heinrich Schliemann's mansion, Iliou Melathron, in downtown Athens, nowadays a great numismatic museum.  

Up we went below, to Lykabettos, one of Athens many hills. A bit strenuous, but worth the effort because of it's great views!


Café on Lykabettos - with a view, too!
Parthenon looks like being built oceanside!
 


Oct. 28 was "Ochi Day", the refusal of the Greek Nation in 1940 to take part in WW2 on the side of the Allied Forces (Italy, Germany). It's a national holiday and in Athens celebrated with a big parade of student and folklore groups.

Above, the view from the rooftop terrace of the new Maria Callas museum (a secret, still!). She was born in the U.S., returned to Athens with her Greek mother and lateron settled in Paris, Italy and NYC. A great personality, worth to do more research on ,,,
Little Mitropolis Church

 

Street scene in Psirri (left) - the probably most popular neighborhood right now, and, in the Plaka (below), more touristy.

Main axle of "New Town": Ermou Street with lots of shops and the Parliament at the end.


Zentralmarkt - Central Market:

More murals:


On Sunday the twice annual "Meet Market" - a fair of artists and artisans plus food vendors and a stage - took place at the Gazi/Technopolis. This former gas production site was transformed into a multi-purpose area with museum, cafés and event space.
The Kerameikos - mostly tombs and gravestones, temples and the Iera Odos, the main street in the old days went through, from outside the city walls into town. Unfortunately, the excavation site and the museum are "closed for renovations". Actually, only the access way to the museum is about to be newly paved,,,

Another first (above, right): The new Museum of Modern Greek Culture in the Plaka consisting of several historic houses and exhibitions to certain topics in each of them. Here the famous Athens shadow puppetery theater figures.

Donnerstag, 9. Oktober 2025

Farewell to NYC – see you next year!

Well, in the meantime (Thursday afternoon) we arrived back home. 7:15 hour flight, smooth, we even had the center seat free between us. "Chicken or pasta" - what else? – and a "new", sort of strange breakfast of sweet waffles with a sausage-egg filling,,, Touch-down at 7:15 am - foggy, grey, much cooler in Munich - home around 10 am. By far not as fast as in NYC!

On Wednesday morning in NYC: rain! The first day with rain on our entire trip! It was still warm and didn't rain hard, so we went out in the morning, after packing, to check out 125th Street in Harlem, the main and historic axle of Harlem, and, in constant change. 

 




The famous Apollo Theater is under renovation, but its new "sister theater", the Victoria (above, right) is operative. The new Studio Museum is about to open soon (November?), too, and so is the Urban Civil Rights Museum. Many of the old, formerly "black" stores shut down, new fancy brand-stores in modern buildings taking over. Same with restaurants.

Well, we had to say farewell to our apartment in 149th Street now. We picked up our luggage and walked over to the subway and on with the A Train to Penn Station (photo) and from there by train to Newark International, then by airtrain to the terminal. Easy-peasy this year, with only one (new) suitcase and our backpacks. On our 84th US trip, we apparently have learned how and what to pack and how to make traveling easier!



Views and more views,,,


Tuesday - our last full day in NYC, with Brooklyn on our daily schedule. We took the train to CityHall (photo above) and walked over the Brooklyn Bridge, packed with people! For the first time we noticed the love locks on fences here, too. Views are incredible!





The bridge ends in Brooklyn Heights (photos), a very high-society historic neighborhood (with not only the famous brownstone houses, but also much older colonial architecture. Over the zigzagging Squibb Bridge (photo below) we  went down to the Brooklyn Bridge Park, a smaller version of Hudson River Park in Manhattan. Years ago, they started gradually to transform the old Brooklyn piers starting at Manhattan Bridge, into public parks, sports fields and playgrounds, beaches and eco areas, marinas, fishing piers, promenades and seating areas. 

 

 



At the end of this strip of piers, connected by more green and a main promenade, is a ferry terminal, and here runs Atlantic Avenue. This street is perfect for shopping and dining (many middle Eastern restaurants!), and, best thing: Sahadi's - the probably best dried goods, deli and spice store (picture below). Grains, spices, nuts, dried fruits, imported olives, coffee and tea, you name it, all available in this  family operation, founded here in 1948.

 


 

Atlantic Ave ends in Downtown Brooklyn where since 2012 the Barclays Center (photo, right) is located: 19,000 seats, home of the Brooklyn Nets and the NY Liberty, the profi basketball teams (male/female). It's surrounded by a lot of new skyscrapers which just came up in the last years.  Brooklyn on its own would be the fourth-largest city in the U.S., after NYC, L.A. and Chicago. It became a borough of NYC in 1898. And it really feels like a city on its own, the atmosphere and population are different.

 


With a last detour to Strands bookstore, we ended up in Hell's Kitchen again. We were invited to a new rooftop bar and restaurant, Hudson VU and Hudson Local, in the Ink48 Hotel. The rooftop lounge was fantastic - if you don't want to spend a lot of money for one of the observation decks, go for it! 

 

Cocktails aren't inexpensive, but well worth the money! The views are just gorgeous, day and night! The meal in the restaurant was super-delicious, too. We had a couple of appetizers, mains and deserts, accompanied by some wines of their well-curated wine menu,,,

 


 The views:

 

What a great last dinner - best on this trip! - and good conversation with our friends, too!