Coffee, and still more coffee

On our first day, we thought we had learned a lot about coffee, but yesterday we even intensified our knowledge and heads are spinning now,,,

First stop: Kona Coffee Living History Farm in Captain Cook for a tour. The farm depicts the daily life of the Japanese Uchida family who leased and farmed this property for 81 years, till the 1990ies. It is typical of many immigrant farmers in Hawai’i between 1920-45 and gives a good idea how life and work on a coffee farm was. It's a "Living History Place" with very knowledgeable interpreters showing visitors how life was and work was done, about cultures and handicrafts like Lauhala weaving. The farmhouse is fully furnished and a Japanese lady is showing how the family originally cooked and lived. Donkeys were used to transport the 100 pound coffee sacks and it's been hard work to pick and mill the cherries to first get wet parchment, then dry parchment and, eventually, green beans. Spreading them out to dry and constant raking were involved. Also, there was an abundance of Macadamia nut trees, orange, avocado (pic below) and banana trees. Again, paradise on earth, but hard work for the people at the time!

On to Greenwell Farms, where we enjoyed another interesting coffee tour. Greenwell is one of few coffee mills in the Kona coffee district, mostly producing green coffee beans for sale. In general, 90 % of the coffee in this 35 x 2 mi growing area comes from small independent farmers, who deliver the coffee cherries to the mills. Greenwell, in addition, produces some (roasted) Estate Coffee. The Greenwell Farms legacy began in 1850 when Henry Nicholas Greenwell left England, and he became famous when in 1873 Kona Coffee was introduced to Europe at the World’s Fair in Vienna.







Besides the historic mill (pic above) there is a new one, producing green coffee beans, which are sold all over the world. The family-operated mill is cooperating with the Pacific Coffee Research Center and are leading in the development of new plant varieties of Arabica, being grown in large greenhouses (pic below). Plan is - we talked to the very down-to-earth owner Tom Greenwell - to be able one day to offer different single variety coffees instead of just "Kona Coffee". The grafted seedlings on the picture are nurtured in the nursery for nearly a year before being planted in the orchards. The first harvest generally occurs in the third or fourth year and full production is reached in six or seven years. The farm also produces green pepper (pic below, on right) and vanilla in larger amounts.

Driving further south afterwards, to Pu'uhonua o Hōnaunau National Historical Park, extending along the lava flats of the Kona Coast. This is one of the most significant traditional Hawaiian sites including Royal Grounds and a place for asylum - need to do our research first to fully understand this place ,,, Fact is: if you had broken the sacred laws, your only chance of survival is to elude your pursuers and reach the Pu'uhonua, a place of refuge. The pu'uhonua or place of refuge is enclosed by the Great Wall, a massive masonry wall. Nearby Hawaiian royalty established important residential and ceremonial sites, known as the Royal Grounds, with temples and resting places. The land that extends along the coast, includes the historic 1871 Trail with more sacred sites and villages, but is a sight on its own with its wild lava flow patterns and lava tunnels. Goats in abundance populate the place.

On the bay back we stopped at Kealakekua Bay SHP, not only known for its Hawaiian Spinner Dolphins and as a Marine Life Conservation District, but first of all as the place where Captain James Cook landed for the first time on the island of Hawaii, in 1779. A monument was erected to remember him on land considered British territory.

Had burgers at Annie's - voted BEST Burger in West Hawaii - on the way back home.

Photos below: a Noni tree (Morinda citrifolia) and Plumeria or Frangipani, again.