New Year, new luck?

Happy New Year! Things can only get better. 

Usually, big deal: A new year, being greeted with fireworks, champagne, good wishes and resolutions. Not on this New Year's: COVID lock down in Germany (and many other European countries), meaning: no fireworks, no parties with more than two households and a maximum of five people. Unusually quiet. Therefore, we slept through the turn of the year!

More than ever before, the turn of the year didn't even pretend to cause any change. The old ("Chinese", as Trump called it) virus is still highly active, the new ("English") mutation is adding to the general fear and uncertainty (or denial and ignorance). Numbers of infected and positively tested people are unrestrainedly on the rise since end of October. The first lock down "light" in November didn't change anything but to prompt a couple of shops/restaurants/services to already shut down for good. The "strict" lock down which was mandated on Dec. 16th is ongoing (probably until January 31st), but equally inefficient so far. 

In December there was suddenly light at the end of the tunnel, when Biontech-Pfizer announced that a COVID-vaccine is available. It took a little longer in Germany to have it formally approved, but after Christmas vaccination started with caregivers, nurses and in care homes. Also, the 80+ age group is among the first ones to get the vaccine. Well, that might beg the question: They may be in greater danger if infected, and, they would swamp the ICUs in hospitals then, but on the other hand, how many 80+ people are regularly leaving the house to go to work or use public transport and meet with other people than their caregivers?

The city is deserted, almost all shops (with the exception of grocery/drug stores), restaurants (only a few offer take-out profitably), fitness studios, services like manicure or hairdressers, cultural institutions, libraries, museums - almost everything - is closed. It's horribly dull and boring and the only way to not go insane is to go grocery shopping and to explore the neighborhood by walking every day. And, reading, lots of reading.

Americans under a certain taxable income automatically get their (second) stimulus check one of these days! Here, there are specific support programs for different professional sectors available, but, e.g. for artists/musicians/actors/journalists/writers, etc., it's hard to qualify. E.g., you have to state your monthly income (which we don't have), your operating costs (neither) or your savings (don't want to do that), and/or have to pay back in full or partially one day. In general, it's several pages of forms to fill out and until you will receive the money, another couple of weeks will go by. 

While the car industry and big companies like Lufthansa are subsidized, while delivery services, internet companies, security firms or producers of disinfectants and masks, Netflix and internet games are on a roll, the environment is suffering. Masks everywhere in the woods/parks/streets, one person per car, not many using public transportation anymore, huge amounts of garbage caused by all the self-declared "chefs". While the rich ones continue to live a good life (many of them in home office, teaching their kids themselves, self-isolating), the ones having to do the "dirty" jobs, salesclerks, caregivers, nurses, kitchen aids or factory hands, are struggling financially and mentally, are being neglected; unemployed and homeless are suffering badly. 

I do not deny the virus and how dangerous it is. I do not deny that there are really stupid people. But, what I particularly miss in politics is practicability, a down-to-the bottom-of-things attitude, a bit more enlightenment, foresight and respect for the educated citizen instead of new rules and flashes at short sight. I would wish for more than just orders, evocations, "mass punishment" because of "bad behavior," theories and theses by these high-paid people, living in villas with all luxury and support available. 

They probably can't imagine, how a family of six, living on 60 qm/600 sq.ft, will be able to find out which of their four kids is currently in "Absenzunterricht" ("home schooling" - as they previously mistakenly called it) and which of them has to be at school regularly (every other day/week?). Also, there are certainly not enough tablets or laptops available for the children to do their homework properly. Let alone the expertise to handle them reasonably and responsibly. Also, who should watch the kids at home, when the dad is a construction worker (a currently booming branch, too) and mom does shift work in geriatric care? Grandparents may be in a high-risk group and can't be bothered. At least, both parents still have work! Though, they probably won't go for a little ski excursion to the Alps on the weekend because the weather is just fine as some others do.

A widening gap is inevitable and "after" (?) COVID society will have changed. But, probably not to the better. We'll see.

 

COVID-19 holding the reins

Traveling is still out of discussion. Last year, around this time, we were getting ready for a trip to Toronto and New York City. 
This year, we are stuck at home and another lockdown is to be expected.
 

Would never have thought at the beginning of the 2020, that now, more than seven months later, we are still not able to travel. That we are still worried, anxious, bored and angry, aggravated and depressive. In August and September, there was a glimmer of hope, at least in Europe. Numbers of infected people were considerably dropping, rules loosened. At least, it was possible again to have a beer at a pub again or to meet with (a handful of) friends (in a beergarden). We were thinking about traveling to Rome at the time, but now even a day trip to Munich has become a not-too-funny endeavor.

In October COVID-19 numbers started to skyrocket again. With the change of weather – it became much cooler and rainier – more people stay inside. And, they gather inside in groups, which apparently is the main problem. One day, it's the young people partying, the next day, a religious groups gathering or weddings/family events taking place. For the elderly, it's always the young ones to blame. But, isn't it easier to stay home, watch TV and hoard toilet paper and pasta when you are 70+ than at age 20+?
 Hoarding of goods started again, toilet paper is already limited to one package per person.

As of late, we have a "traffic light system", colors corresponding to a statistical calculation called "Inzidenzquotient". Lights are changing from green to yellow to red, and, new: dark-red. Corresponding to the number of positively tested people in the last 7 days calculated from 100,000 people each city/county is treated differently now. And, I am only talking about Bavaria,,,

In the beginning of the pandemic rules/regulations were mandatory and (mostly) the same for the whole country. Now it's much more confusing IMHO, because just traveling like 5 or 10 mi. may mean you are in/out of a "dangerous zone" and have (not) to wear a mask and can eat out longer. Our hometown Augsburg is currently "dark-red", restaurants close at 9 pm, masks are mandatory everywhere in the city center (there are controls and fines up to 250 Euro). We assume the next stage will be "black" and this would mean going into lockdown. Not only will schools, day cares, restaurants and museums close, people will not be allowed to leave their houses without a good reason. Christmas markets (on the photo below the one in Augsburg) are already cancelled.

 

 

Apparently, human mentality (and stupidity) ask for strict rules, which are not always logical. It's not really conclusive to wear a mask in completely empty parts of the city, just because it's in the designated zone. Also, bikers don't need to wear a mask in the city, pedestrians have to. Theaters have strict restrictions in regard to number of visitors and struggle to survive (same for the artists involved). Just a certain number of people/households (depending on "color of the light") is allowed to meet in the public and at home. But, for soccer players (and some other sports) these rules are not applicable. Soccer is not really a "bodyless" occupation, and, if you look at the stands sometimes (rules are different in each stadium/state), you fully understand why people from other fields of activities get angry. On the other hand, in trains, trams, busses or planes proximity can't be avoided as much as people would love to.

Please, don't misunderstand me, we are cautious and we do wear masks and do not deny that this virus is dangerous, but currently we feel treated like nasty children. Politicians with their unchanged/ unreasonably big income and their large villas (preferably including fitness room, pool, park and lots of space) can easily talk about "stay safe, stay home!"

For Booklovers!!!

 

Keep in mind, please: besides this travel blog – which is, admittedly, for   lack of new travel adventures, pretty boring at the moment – there is our new book blog: https://travelingbookworms.blogspot.com

 

 

 

Recently, we reviewed Delia Owens, Der Gesang der Flusskrebse ("Where the Crawdads sing") - an absolutely fabulous book! A little earlier, we talked about Susan Neiman's "Von den Deutschen lernen" ("Learning from the Germans"), also, highly interesting reading, especially, in these politically crazy times.

In this context, you should also check out Amerikahaus München's interesting digital presentations on 

https://www.amerikahaus.de/veranstaltungen/veranstaltungsarchiv/

 Have fun reading now - it's good compensation for not being able to travel!

Visit in the 3/4 mile high village

Another "travel experiment" in Germany: Oberjoch, 1,200 meters high (pic shows it in winter), about 200 permanent residents, situated in the Allgäuer Alpen (Oberallgäu), not far from the border to Austria. After our previous experiences with hotels in Germany we've been sceptical, but were positively surprised. The 4+-star Panorama Hotel, where we stayed for the 11th time (first time this year), stood the test in Corona times. Picture below shows our view from the balcony.

We spent three nights there, full plan, all included, and there were only minor restrictions. Of course, masks were mandatory in public areas (though, not in the sauna/pool area with the exception of the tiny restrooms there - !?), but, for the rest, there were only minor inconveniences, like e.g. no reading or info material in public areas and in the rooms, no fruit "for to go", no real drink menus in the restaurant (but loose paper sheets), no blankets in the wellness area (but pillows and cushions - does that make sense?). The steam bath, salt-infusion room and ice fountain were closed, but fitness room, pools and saunas fully operative. Sauna infusions yes, but no fanning, and, only a restricted number of sauna goers allowed, which is completely o.k. No bar stools anymore around the oval lobby bar, even not with due distance. That way, servers/barkeepers had to even come closer to guests at the little tables to explain drinks with their masks on. Not highly logical! Self-service buffets are allowed again, and, we had it for breakfast, afternoon cake, salads and cheese, but,,, plastic gloves are mandatory. Can you imagine the heaps of waste being discarded each day in this one hotel only? The amounts of sanitizer? Of paper towels (e.g. to clean fitness equipment)?

We had a good time, spent each morning with activities, starting with rowing/workout in the (always empty) fitness room, swimming, a fitness course or a hike (photos above). We love the offered hikes with Hans, a 82-year old character, hotel guide and course instructor, never aging and a fount of knowledge in many regards. In the afternoon, we slowed down and sauna sessions were on our schedule. Also, we went on an excursion to Bad Hindelang ("Bahila", photos below) one afternoon - over 100 curves on about 7 km to get there. To the same degree, the hotel was almost fully booked, this town was crowded with tourists.

The weather was pretty decent for the most part, fall-like and changeable, but still warm (snow is in the forecast for this upcoming weekend!), with a thunderstorm every afternoon. In bad weather, clouds seem to lay on the roads in Oberjoch and mountains aren't visible anymore. It's a feeling like living on an island. Big advangtage in the Panorama Hotel is, that all rooms are nicely equipped and modernly furnished, they are in principle all the same, with balconies and mountain view. Thanks to an upgrade to a gallery room, we even had a foosball table on the gallery.

Breakfast buffet as well as five-course dinners were delicious as always (Tafelspitz to be seen on the photo), only flaw in this hotel, culinary-wise, is the cheese selection on the buffets, from our first visit in 2015 on. In the Allgäu, a main cheese producing region, it's IMHO not ideal to serve mostly "international" cheeses like camembert, goat or blue cheese. A bit more creativity and courage to educate all the "Northerners", Swabians and Swiss guests about Allgäu cheese-making and varieties would be applauded.

Crowded in the Alps

Nope, I am still not a real fan of traveling in Germany. Growing up closeby the Alps, we are both not highly enthusiastic about this comparably narrow, crowded mountain region. Nevertheless, from time to time we go on an excursion, mostly to visit a friend of us who has a little shop (2 people allowed inside in Corona times!) in downtown Fuessen, called 100 % Handwerk and selling "handicrafts" from mostly local/regional small artisans/designers, like leather goods, knives, jewelry, and some knick-knack. She told us that in the last weeks business picked up considerably and that she's never ever seen the city so crowded. After having had to shut down for weeks in March/April she has fully recovered now.

Wish we could say the same thing as travel writers/journalists (focused on the U.S.A.),,,

Well, downtown Fuessen was packed - social distancing became rather unknown. Bikers (mostly either elderly people or families, the majority with e-bikes) taking over downtown Fuessen and the scenic roads around. Many people seem to still have vacation days left and/or are able to afford vacation (which sort of amazes me) and many stay in Germany this year for their annual summer vacation for obvious reasons. The Alps, besides the North Sea, are a top destination. Overcrowded streets, full restaurants, sold-out hotels, no parking - have become a problem. Not really fun IMHO.

It's only a 1 1/2 hour drive to Fuessen and we usually combine it with a dip into Hopfensee, a usually refreshing natural mountain lake. Also, we always get provisions in a dairy (Bergkäserei Weizern) and in a microbrewery (Kösselbräu) in closeby Eisenberg. Well, the lake promenade was packed this time, parking was a problem and, in addition, we have never experienced the lake that muddy and warm before. Much more SUPs and boats of all kinds in the water than swimmers.

Halfway, on the way back home, we have our fav beergarden in Holzhausen - a brewery at the same time. They are serving the probably best pork roast in the area - inexpensive, too! Only problem is to get a table, even if you come early, like us, at 5:30 pm. With space restrictions, they recently expanded the beergarden towards the space inbetween barns, but it's nicer to sit under the chestnut trees. It's completely self-service, you pay and pick up your beer on one side, your meal on the other. Primitive and simple, but unique and good.

On the way back home on side roads through fields and little villages, sun slowly going down, we stopped at the "Eizelle" - which is an old telephone booth, repurposed as a refridgerated storage room for fresh eggs from the adjacent farm. You pick your box of eggs (10), medium or large, and simply leave the money in a box.

It's been a good day, the weather was beautiful, but, nevertheless, I would rather travel somewhere else, far away,,,

Becoming modest travelers

Would never have thought, that it would make us happy one day to get out and visit a German city. At least, a city, we've never been to before. Out of principle, our opinion to date was/is, that we can always travel in Germany when we are "old and fragile" ,,, Nevertheless, last week we got a severe attack of cabin fever and took the car to drive to Regensburg with its famous cathedral (Dom) and its protected old town.

Regensburg - founded in Roman times as a legionary fortress has some interesting relicts - as Porta Praetoria on the photo – from these times and brought us back to our roots. Same for Eining/Abusina, a Roman auxiliary fort, to the Southwest, where we stopped by on the way back home (pic below).

Mainly, Regensburg is a city of (catholic) churches, the famous castle/monastery/church St. Emmeram and unusual tower houses for the wealthy families in the past. Being situated on the river Danube, the city was always a hub of trade and commerce. Nice compact old town, on the UNESCO World Heritage List, and an interesting new museum: HDBG (Haus der Bayerischen Geschichte), dedicated exclusively to Bavarian History.

On the way back, we also stopped in Weltenburg where the Danube spectacularly breaks through rocks and where the famous Asam brothers, one architect, the other painter, were responsible for the monastery/church with its famous baroque paintings.


Well, what I also wanted to talk about is, again, "traveling in times of COVID-19". Social distancing has become unknown to many people in the meantime, especially while standing in line and on the streets/pathways. Recklessness is back full swing. Masks are often leisurely hanging around the chin, the biceps, or, the nose is left free. But, in general, moral to wear masks is still pretty good. Rules remain strange in many regards: In a beergarden we visited, every other table/bench was left empty, but they put two parties with a max. of 6 people around one table! Waiters mostly wore fancy little plexiglass visors –, wondering how effective they are,,, No masks at a gelateria, but for the five steps from the entrance of a restaurant to the table.

The IBIS hotel we stayed at was brandnew and a good deal. In contrast to our Garmisch hotel, they had real glasses in the room and their bar was open all day. But, same as before: rooms are not cleaned anymore automatically. I do understand that cleaning personal shouldn't be in the room at same time as the occupants, but what against cleaning a room thoroughly every day, like before? Isn't it even more important now?

At Sixes and Sevens

Though, we are still unable to travel to the U.S.A., we are following the news closely, intensely and regularly. For the U.S. in general, but specifically for NYC, where we have a lot of friends, and, in addition, two - in "before Corona times" - top-selling guidebooks on the market.

Currently, in the daily news in Germany it's mostly negative and critical comments about the U.S. we read/hear. Not sparing a thought yet that our business will be back to normal and that travel activities can be resumed soon. But, nevertheless, there is hope for some "normality" in parts of the States, though it'll be a slow, tedious process with hickups. As hard as NYC was hit by the virus at the beginning, the threat has now retreated further south and west and NYC seems to show signs of slow recovery.

You'll have to keep in mind, that the situation in regard to SARS-CoV-2/COVID 19 is everything but consistent. Considering the size of the U.S.A. (Germany would size-wise fit about 27times into the land area!)and the highly variable density of population, there are regions/states - e.g. the Dakotas or Vermont - for which the virus is not a big topic anymore and where life is already back to normal. While in other states/counties, e.g. in Texas, Florida or Louisiana, people don't dare to get out anymore to do their grocery shopping.

Reopening New York

End of March, Governor Andrew Cuomo NYC shut down New York City, almost completely, closed restaurant, stopped construction work, made many people jobless (and, closely associated, healthcare-less). June 8th, Cuomos four-part reopening plan »New York Forward« became operative. Companies and construction work got bit by bit back on track, shops were allowed to offer pick-up service and public transport (MTA) started to operate on a regular basis again (with no night traffic from 1 to 5 am, to desinfect trains). Up to 10 peole were allowed to get together, notabene with adequate distance and masks. Cuomo made it a law that if a distance of 6 ft (1,83m) can't be observed, a mask is mandatory. Same goes for public transportation and taxis.

In the following weeks, other offices, hairdressers and stores reopened, as well as service companies. NYSE (Stock Exchange) resumed operation. Beaches, e.g. Coney Island, are open, swimming is still prohibited. Parks are accessible as well, only some heavily frequented ones have restrictions in numbers of visitors at a time.

July 20th, outdoor venues were allowed to reopen, among them Botanical Gardens and Zoos. Still closed are currently fitness studios, malls, museums, movie theaters and theaters. Broadway already announced that they won't open in 2020 anymore, Lincoln Center and Carnegie Hall made the same decision. Other then formerly announced, restaurants (inside) stayed closed, only outside service is being offered.

Since the Corona hotspots shifted to other states in the U.S.A. in the last couple of weeks, New York requests visitors from currently 22 other states now to quarantine for two weeks. Also, Governor Cuomo ordered to pay more attention to social distancing rules and mandatory mask-wearing. Some restaurants and shops which contravened the rules were already shut down by the police. Mayor de Blasio is especially sceptical in regard to operations inside and therefore wants to keep restaurants closed for customers inside.

What's open in NYC:


- Empire State Building (left pic): open since 7/20.
- Museums: some plan to open end of July, most (e.g. the MET) only end of August.
- One World Observatory - no re-opening date yet
- Top of the Rock: re-opening on Aug. 6
- Hudson Yards/The Edge & The Vessel: open again from middle of August on
- 9/11 Memorial/Museum: Memorial (pic above, right): daily 1-8 pm, museum still closed

- Governors Island (above pic on the left): open since July 15 for „passive recreation activities“, Mon-Fri 10am-6pm, weekends 10am-7pm
- Liberty/Ellis Island: only open areas on Liberty Island accessible, new museum closed as well as Ellis Island.
- High Line Park (above, right): noon-8 pm daily, „ timed-entry pass“ (free, to book in advance online) necessary, masks and social distancing. Only entrance: Gansevoort Street
- Central Park: (pic further up) open with masks and distance rules. No group activities, visitor centers, playgrounds and athletic fields are closed.
- Markets/Foodhalls: food stalls and stalls open for pick-up. Essex Market (pic below): 8am-6pm, Sun. 10am-6pm ), no seating for customers, some stalls are closed. Smorgasburg: „SmorgTo Go“ in Williamsburg (51 N. 6th St./Kent Ave) with ten alternating vendors, daily 11:30am-8pm for order pick-up.