Mittwoch, 21. Mai 2025

Jeans, Church and Beer: Bamberg


In this house in Buttenheim, nearby Bamberg/Frankonia, famous entrepreneur Loeb  (later "Levi") Strauss was born in 1829. Though, he became famous in San Francisco as the inventor of the blue jeans (which was called "waist overall" at the time), he grew up here as the son of a Jewish peddler.

At the age of 18 he immigrated to the United States with his mother and two sisters to join his brothers who had begun a wholesale dry goods business in New York City. From there, and, closely related to the California Gold Rush, he traveled to San Francisco in 1853 to live the American Dream. He opened a haberdashery and eventually became a very wealthy textile manufacturer. An important role played the invention of a satorial by name Jacob Davis from Reno: copper rivets to enforce critical sections of pants, like the pockets, which was patented in 1874. Strauss passed away in 1902 and passed on the enterprise to his nephews. From workers' outfit, jeans quickly became fashion and "cool".

Using audio-stations and exhibitions and films the museum presents the life and career of Levi Strauss, but, at the same time, depicts the history of the Levi's company and is a portrayal of clever advertisement (below). Connected to the museum is a shop with Levi's merchandise, some of the clothing not to be available in other stores here.  


 

On by train to nearby Bamberg ,,, first, to the Gärtner & Häcker-Museum, a unique museum dealing with the former life of veggie gardeners and wine growers in the center of a city, not on the coutryside! The museum is located in the old house of a gardener dating in 1767 and it shows the lifestyle of the people living here then. On the attic and outside, visitors learn a lot about gardening in the old days. A broad variety of veggies and herbs is still grown and can be inspected closely in the large gardens. The climate was mild here and even mediterranean varieties were cultivated (photos below).

Bamberg became especially famous for licorice, a root veggie used for goodies but also in medicine. Also, raddishes, onions, leeks, turnips, kohlrabi, salads and spinach were popular, and exported, and, there are still some specific varieties which came up here. Bamberger Hörnle, a small, longish variety of potatoes were first bred here as well and, in the old days, wine growers planted the slopes of the hill to the cathedral. They later switched to hops, fruit and grain when the climate became to rough to grow wine.


 

Bamberg is on the UNESCO World Heritage list for its great architecture and a very intact city ensemble. The Old City Hall of Bamberg (left photo) was built on a manmade island in the river Regnitz. The island is connected to the "mainland" by two bridges (one of them below). While the first city hall was built in 1386, today's building dates in 1461.

 

Die Alte Hofhaltung is the "religious core" of the city, closely connected to the cathedral (Dom) - see photo below – and the Neue Residenz. The Hofhaltung was the first residence of the bishops. IT's been emperor Heinrich II who declared Bamberg 1007 a bishops' seat. The old buildings in framework were constructed from 1475 on. Nowadays, the building is the location of the Historical Museum.


Even fancier is the Neue Residenz, built 1697-1703 under prince-bishop von Schönborn. There are magnificent apartments for the hoi polloi with fancy furniture and artwork. The real eyecatcher here is the Kaisersaal, painted at the beginning of the 18th century:

A rose garden, planned in 1733 is connected to the Residenz, including a water basin and 4.500 roses of 48 varieties, of which only a few were already in full bloom:


There is lots of modern art in Bamberg to be discovered, here two examples, left one from Markus Lüpertz ("Apollo") and, right one, the "Centurione" by the Polish sculptor Igor Mitoraj. The "Humsera" on the market square on the pic below refers to a very special character, a chatty market vendor who died in 1910.

 

The former fishermen's neighborhood on the island is called "Little Venice" (Klein Venedig). Beautiful Medieval timber-frame architecture with beautiful little gardens are typical here. The single house on the photo below, was on the other bank of the river Rednitz, completely overgrown by a rambler rose! How beautiful is that?


Bamberg is the "City of breweries and (smoked) beer" and a city where you can eat very well, e.g. "Schäuferla", pork shoulder served with a dumpling, sauce and either savoy cabbage or sauerkraut.  
 


A must-see in Bamberg: The Mälzerei Weyermann, famous world-wide for its speciality malts used in beer brewing. They have their ownspeciality brewery, too, which produced a fantastic variety of unusual beers.


Montag, 14. April 2025

Roma Aeterna



The Eternal City - we were back to Rome for five days! For the 27th or 28th time,,, but, it's never ever been as crowded as this time! Main reason: "Giubileo 25" - the Holy Year, which only takes place every 25 years, and attracts many pilgrimage groups from all over the world to visit. In addition, it's traditionally the time when student groups go on excursions. Therefore, the city was packed, long lines in front of attractions, museums, churches, intensified by strenghtened security. 

At famous Fontana di Trevi, for the first time only a certain number of people was admitted in at the same time. Once a group left through the "Exit" on one side, there were more people allowed in. No sitting at the fountain's edge (to throw your coin), and, even sitting around the fountain, on the benches, wasn't welcomed. A whole squad of supervisors was busy and constantly whistling when people broke the new "laws". 

Crowds everywhere: At the Colosseo (from top to bottom), at the Pantheon, the Fontana di Trevi and the Piazza San Pietro in Vatican.





 

In addition to the crowds it was a bit disturbing that in this big anniversary year so many sights were under renovation/construction, buildings or views hidden behind scaffoldings and fences - Piazza Navonna's fountain, all of the Capitoline Hill with its famous museum (photo below), the famous viewpoint on the Aventino in the Giardino degli Aranci (popular for wedding photos!), and, many more. One would have thought that they try to get things accomplished before tourists flock in to celebrate 2025. 

Streetcars were only running sporadically and irregularly, not all lines in operation. Planned Metro expansion isn't fully accomplished yet. We especially struggled with public transportation, since we depended on it. We had chosen an AirBnB in Pigneto (photos below show apartment and neighborhood), west of the city center, assuming that we are well connected to town by streetcar, bus and metro. Which was theoretically correct, but, practically, it took us forever to get into town. Most times we changed lines once and waiting times were up to 20 min.! Never again we'll choose a place that far out with no chance to walk ,,,


 

What's still great in Rome are, first, the markets - food and other markets - and 2nd, the food and wine itself. Good deals if you know where to go and what to buy. One of our favs is the pizzeria Dar Poeta in Trastevere (Calzone and "Super Bufala Pizza" below) - good quality, big portions and very modest prices! - and we love to have breakfast in a regular bar, which locals frequent, just a cornetto and a capuccino at the bar.

 

 

Mercado Trionfale near Vatican - it was artichoke season!


Home-cooked meal with gnocci and sugo from the market 

 Love the markets which sell used clothing and leather goods, too, especially the huge one at Porta Portese on Sundays, with vendors selling at boothes along a stretch of 2.8 km:


Flora and fauna are gorgeous and the weather (at least when we were visiting) was great, sunny though not too warm. Love the parks, the parakeets (Halsbandsittiche/Psittacula krameri) and all the early blooming trees. Even roses were starting to bloom, irises, too, and Judas Trees (redbud?) - Cercis siliquastrum/Judasbaum - were everywhere abundantly covered with pink blooms (left photo).



Tiber promenade

Colosseo seen from Parco Archeologico del Celio
Fountain in front of Giardino degli Aranci

Lupa Romana fountain

Some fountains above. Water quality is good in Rome and there are drinking fountains everywhere, plus, many ornamental ones like the Venus fountain in Parco Borghese (left) or the famous elephant fountain by Bernini (below).



We walked around 50 mi/80 km in not quite five days (and covered many more miles on public transport), found some good new developments (like a pedestrian area around the railroad station, the railroad station itself, the new Parco Archeologico del Celio (photos below) and the newly opened church and rampa with exhibitions on Foro Romano/Palatino).



 Foro Romano:


 Byzantine Santa Maria Antiqua (newly opened on Palatine slope):


Domus Augustana on Palatine - the residence of Roman emperor Domitian -  with its famous stadium:
View from Patatine towards Foro Romano
And here some more archeological sites in Rome at different places, first, Largo Argentina:

Porta Maggiore:

And our fav place on the Pincio on Sundays: The "Pattinatori del Pincio" - a group of roller skaters practising there regularly and fun to watch:

Mural in Trastevere: Jumping Wolf by ROA
View towards the Spanish Steps below 
Centro storico:

Modern FCO - Fiumicino Airport - with big EATALY:

Not to forget: heavenly gelato - one more reason to return!