For Booklovers!!!

 

Keep in mind, please: besides this travel blog – which is, admittedly, for   lack of new travel adventures, pretty boring at the moment – there is our new book blog: https://travelingbookworms.blogspot.com

 

 

 

Recently, we reviewed Delia Owens, Der Gesang der Flusskrebse ("Where the Crawdads sing") - an absolutely fabulous book! A little earlier, we talked about Susan Neiman's "Von den Deutschen lernen" ("Learning from the Germans"), also, highly interesting reading, especially, in these politically crazy times.

In this context, you should also check out Amerikahaus München's interesting digital presentations on 

https://www.amerikahaus.de/veranstaltungen/veranstaltungsarchiv/

 Have fun reading now - it's good compensation for not being able to travel!

Visit in the 3/4 mile high village

Another "travel experiment" in Germany: Oberjoch, 1,200 meters high (pic shows it in winter), about 200 permanent residents, situated in the Allgäuer Alpen (Oberallgäu), not far from the border to Austria. After our previous experiences with hotels in Germany we've been sceptical, but were positively surprised. The 4+-star Panorama Hotel, where we stayed for the 11th time (first time this year), stood the test in Corona times. Picture below shows our view from the balcony.

We spent three nights there, full plan, all included, and there were only minor restrictions. Of course, masks were mandatory in public areas (though, not in the sauna/pool area with the exception of the tiny restrooms there - !?), but, for the rest, there were only minor inconveniences, like e.g. no reading or info material in public areas and in the rooms, no fruit "for to go", no real drink menus in the restaurant (but loose paper sheets), no blankets in the wellness area (but pillows and cushions - does that make sense?). The steam bath, salt-infusion room and ice fountain were closed, but fitness room, pools and saunas fully operative. Sauna infusions yes, but no fanning, and, only a restricted number of sauna goers allowed, which is completely o.k. No bar stools anymore around the oval lobby bar, even not with due distance. That way, servers/barkeepers had to even come closer to guests at the little tables to explain drinks with their masks on. Not highly logical! Self-service buffets are allowed again, and, we had it for breakfast, afternoon cake, salads and cheese, but,,, plastic gloves are mandatory. Can you imagine the heaps of waste being discarded each day in this one hotel only? The amounts of sanitizer? Of paper towels (e.g. to clean fitness equipment)?

We had a good time, spent each morning with activities, starting with rowing/workout in the (always empty) fitness room, swimming, a fitness course or a hike (photos above). We love the offered hikes with Hans, a 82-year old character, hotel guide and course instructor, never aging and a fount of knowledge in many regards. In the afternoon, we slowed down and sauna sessions were on our schedule. Also, we went on an excursion to Bad Hindelang ("Bahila", photos below) one afternoon - over 100 curves on about 7 km to get there. To the same degree, the hotel was almost fully booked, this town was crowded with tourists.

The weather was pretty decent for the most part, fall-like and changeable, but still warm (snow is in the forecast for this upcoming weekend!), with a thunderstorm every afternoon. In bad weather, clouds seem to lay on the roads in Oberjoch and mountains aren't visible anymore. It's a feeling like living on an island. Big advangtage in the Panorama Hotel is, that all rooms are nicely equipped and modernly furnished, they are in principle all the same, with balconies and mountain view. Thanks to an upgrade to a gallery room, we even had a foosball table on the gallery.

Breakfast buffet as well as five-course dinners were delicious as always (Tafelspitz to be seen on the photo), only flaw in this hotel, culinary-wise, is the cheese selection on the buffets, from our first visit in 2015 on. In the Allgäu, a main cheese producing region, it's IMHO not ideal to serve mostly "international" cheeses like camembert, goat or blue cheese. A bit more creativity and courage to educate all the "Northerners", Swabians and Swiss guests about Allgäu cheese-making and varieties would be applauded.

Crowded in the Alps

Nope, I am still not a real fan of traveling in Germany. Growing up closeby the Alps, we are both not highly enthusiastic about this comparably narrow, crowded mountain region. Nevertheless, from time to time we go on an excursion, mostly to visit a friend of us who has a little shop (2 people allowed inside in Corona times!) in downtown Fuessen, called 100 % Handwerk and selling "handicrafts" from mostly local/regional small artisans/designers, like leather goods, knives, jewelry, and some knick-knack. She told us that in the last weeks business picked up considerably and that she's never ever seen the city so crowded. After having had to shut down for weeks in March/April she has fully recovered now.

Wish we could say the same thing as travel writers/journalists (focused on the U.S.A.),,,

Well, downtown Fuessen was packed - social distancing became rather unknown. Bikers (mostly either elderly people or families, the majority with e-bikes) taking over downtown Fuessen and the scenic roads around. Many people seem to still have vacation days left and/or are able to afford vacation (which sort of amazes me) and many stay in Germany this year for their annual summer vacation for obvious reasons. The Alps, besides the North Sea, are a top destination. Overcrowded streets, full restaurants, sold-out hotels, no parking - have become a problem. Not really fun IMHO.

It's only a 1 1/2 hour drive to Fuessen and we usually combine it with a dip into Hopfensee, a usually refreshing natural mountain lake. Also, we always get provisions in a dairy (Bergkäserei Weizern) and in a microbrewery (Kösselbräu) in closeby Eisenberg. Well, the lake promenade was packed this time, parking was a problem and, in addition, we have never experienced the lake that muddy and warm before. Much more SUPs and boats of all kinds in the water than swimmers.

Halfway, on the way back home, we have our fav beergarden in Holzhausen - a brewery at the same time. They are serving the probably best pork roast in the area - inexpensive, too! Only problem is to get a table, even if you come early, like us, at 5:30 pm. With space restrictions, they recently expanded the beergarden towards the space inbetween barns, but it's nicer to sit under the chestnut trees. It's completely self-service, you pay and pick up your beer on one side, your meal on the other. Primitive and simple, but unique and good.

On the way back home on side roads through fields and little villages, sun slowly going down, we stopped at the "Eizelle" - which is an old telephone booth, repurposed as a refridgerated storage room for fresh eggs from the adjacent farm. You pick your box of eggs (10), medium or large, and simply leave the money in a box.

It's been a good day, the weather was beautiful, but, nevertheless, I would rather travel somewhere else, far away,,,

Becoming modest travelers

Would never have thought, that it would make us happy one day to get out and visit a German city. At least, a city, we've never been to before. Out of principle, our opinion to date was/is, that we can always travel in Germany when we are "old and fragile" ,,, Nevertheless, last week we got a severe attack of cabin fever and took the car to drive to Regensburg with its famous cathedral (Dom) and its protected old town.

Regensburg - founded in Roman times as a legionary fortress has some interesting relicts - as Porta Praetoria on the photo – from these times and brought us back to our roots. Same for Eining/Abusina, a Roman auxiliary fort, to the Southwest, where we stopped by on the way back home (pic below).

Mainly, Regensburg is a city of (catholic) churches, the famous castle/monastery/church St. Emmeram and unusual tower houses for the wealthy families in the past. Being situated on the river Danube, the city was always a hub of trade and commerce. Nice compact old town, on the UNESCO World Heritage List, and an interesting new museum: HDBG (Haus der Bayerischen Geschichte), dedicated exclusively to Bavarian History.

On the way back, we also stopped in Weltenburg where the Danube spectacularly breaks through rocks and where the famous Asam brothers, one architect, the other painter, were responsible for the monastery/church with its famous baroque paintings.


Well, what I also wanted to talk about is, again, "traveling in times of COVID-19". Social distancing has become unknown to many people in the meantime, especially while standing in line and on the streets/pathways. Recklessness is back full swing. Masks are often leisurely hanging around the chin, the biceps, or, the nose is left free. But, in general, moral to wear masks is still pretty good. Rules remain strange in many regards: In a beergarden we visited, every other table/bench was left empty, but they put two parties with a max. of 6 people around one table! Waiters mostly wore fancy little plexiglass visors –, wondering how effective they are,,, No masks at a gelateria, but for the five steps from the entrance of a restaurant to the table.

The IBIS hotel we stayed at was brandnew and a good deal. In contrast to our Garmisch hotel, they had real glasses in the room and their bar was open all day. But, same as before: rooms are not cleaned anymore automatically. I do understand that cleaning personal shouldn't be in the room at same time as the occupants, but what against cleaning a room thoroughly every day, like before? Isn't it even more important now?

At Sixes and Sevens

Though, we are still unable to travel to the U.S.A., we are following the news closely, intensely and regularly. For the U.S. in general, but specifically for NYC, where we have a lot of friends, and, in addition, two - in "before Corona times" - top-selling guidebooks on the market.

Currently, in the daily news in Germany it's mostly negative and critical comments about the U.S. we read/hear. Not sparing a thought yet that our business will be back to normal and that travel activities can be resumed soon. But, nevertheless, there is hope for some "normality" in parts of the States, though it'll be a slow, tedious process with hickups. As hard as NYC was hit by the virus at the beginning, the threat has now retreated further south and west and NYC seems to show signs of slow recovery.

You'll have to keep in mind, that the situation in regard to SARS-CoV-2/COVID 19 is everything but consistent. Considering the size of the U.S.A. (Germany would size-wise fit about 27times into the land area!)and the highly variable density of population, there are regions/states - e.g. the Dakotas or Vermont - for which the virus is not a big topic anymore and where life is already back to normal. While in other states/counties, e.g. in Texas, Florida or Louisiana, people don't dare to get out anymore to do their grocery shopping.

Reopening New York

End of March, Governor Andrew Cuomo NYC shut down New York City, almost completely, closed restaurant, stopped construction work, made many people jobless (and, closely associated, healthcare-less). June 8th, Cuomos four-part reopening plan »New York Forward« became operative. Companies and construction work got bit by bit back on track, shops were allowed to offer pick-up service and public transport (MTA) started to operate on a regular basis again (with no night traffic from 1 to 5 am, to desinfect trains). Up to 10 peole were allowed to get together, notabene with adequate distance and masks. Cuomo made it a law that if a distance of 6 ft (1,83m) can't be observed, a mask is mandatory. Same goes for public transportation and taxis.

In the following weeks, other offices, hairdressers and stores reopened, as well as service companies. NYSE (Stock Exchange) resumed operation. Beaches, e.g. Coney Island, are open, swimming is still prohibited. Parks are accessible as well, only some heavily frequented ones have restrictions in numbers of visitors at a time.

July 20th, outdoor venues were allowed to reopen, among them Botanical Gardens and Zoos. Still closed are currently fitness studios, malls, museums, movie theaters and theaters. Broadway already announced that they won't open in 2020 anymore, Lincoln Center and Carnegie Hall made the same decision. Other then formerly announced, restaurants (inside) stayed closed, only outside service is being offered.

Since the Corona hotspots shifted to other states in the U.S.A. in the last couple of weeks, New York requests visitors from currently 22 other states now to quarantine for two weeks. Also, Governor Cuomo ordered to pay more attention to social distancing rules and mandatory mask-wearing. Some restaurants and shops which contravened the rules were already shut down by the police. Mayor de Blasio is especially sceptical in regard to operations inside and therefore wants to keep restaurants closed for customers inside.

What's open in NYC:


- Empire State Building (left pic): open since 7/20.
- Museums: some plan to open end of July, most (e.g. the MET) only end of August.
- One World Observatory - no re-opening date yet
- Top of the Rock: re-opening on Aug. 6
- Hudson Yards/The Edge & The Vessel: open again from middle of August on
- 9/11 Memorial/Museum: Memorial (pic above, right): daily 1-8 pm, museum still closed

- Governors Island (above pic on the left): open since July 15 for „passive recreation activities“, Mon-Fri 10am-6pm, weekends 10am-7pm
- Liberty/Ellis Island: only open areas on Liberty Island accessible, new museum closed as well as Ellis Island.
- High Line Park (above, right): noon-8 pm daily, „ timed-entry pass“ (free, to book in advance online) necessary, masks and social distancing. Only entrance: Gansevoort Street
- Central Park: (pic further up) open with masks and distance rules. No group activities, visitor centers, playgrounds and athletic fields are closed.
- Markets/Foodhalls: food stalls and stalls open for pick-up. Essex Market (pic below): 8am-6pm, Sun. 10am-6pm ), no seating for customers, some stalls are closed. Smorgasburg: „SmorgTo Go“ in Williamsburg (51 N. 6th St./Kent Ave) with ten alternating vendors, daily 11:30am-8pm for order pick-up.

Traveling to the Alps - an experiment

Traveling isn't really fun in present times, even not a short excursion. At least, not for us. We checked it out last week.

Thanks to a coupon from our health insurance company for regular check-ups/dentist's visits/cancer checks we drove to the Alps, to Garmisch-Partenkirchen (GAP) - closeby Zugspitze. From a hotel list, we had chosen a 4-star Sporthotel in GAP for two nights, easy to reach by car, not quite two hours from where we are living.

Well, besides the flaws of the hotel itself (built in the 1980ies and correspondingly old-fashioned and outdated in some regard), there were a lot of Corona-related rules and restrictions, not all of them making sense (as everywhere). Wondering, whether our politicians and other officials ever check out what they are enforcing?

At check-in we received a list of "instructions" and got to know where to wear a mask and where not, how the spa/pool area can be used (time slots on reservation, 1 hour only) and how the restaurant is operating (reservations necessary for dinner and time slots for breakfast). Though, there were two restaurants and a bar mentioned on the website, there was just one restaurant with a beergarden available. Since the weather wasn't perfect, the beergarden was closed and the restaurant only opened at 6 pm. No coffee & cake or ice cream in the afternoon, no drink after dinner.

The menu was very restricted, too, no single soup, no desert menu, but, nevertheless, exorbitantly high prices for the quality. It was also encouraged to order meals "To go" and to pick them up at the reception. When you had successfully carried the styrofoam boxes a couple of "miles" to your room (the hotel complex is huge, different buildings connected by a tunnel system, 150+ rooms/apts), the meal was luke-warm. And then, we noticed, that they didn't pack any salt and pepper. In the restaurant, tables (of course, table clothes or cloth napkins were eliminated) were set up in the required distance, but waiters were constantly bumping their heads because of the hanging lamps - originally, one over each table.

What we didn't read before was that rooms are only cleaned on request (you have to ask the day before, before 3 pm. Check-in time is 4 pm!), and that you have to give a 4-hour time frame for cleaning. Also, there are no extra blankets/pillows, no notepads, no brochures, no cushions for balcony chairs in the rooms anymore, no cushions for the chairs in the pool/public areas. Only plastic cups in the room, which leads over to the crazy amount of waste (pic was not taken at the hotel, but is sort of representative!). Most breakfast items are packaged, sanitizer wipes were piling up in the fitness room waste baskets, new rubber gloves are used for each towel a guest is picking up. Can't even imagine the number of empty bottles of hand sanitizer every day!

To wear a mask in the dressing room of the (mostly empty) pool area is sort of crazy - how the heck can I undress with a mask on? No mask while working out, but mandatory in the bathroom, which is only accessible by one person,,, Chaotic arrows for entry/exit in the reception building and a guarantee that you aren't properly understood thanks to your mask and their plexiglass.

Well, until rules and regulations won't be relaxed in Germany (meaning the virus is "gone" and a vaccine/medicine is found), we won't travel overnight anymore, or, at least, we will not stay in a hotel.

NEW! NEW! NEW!

Due to abundant time supply at the moment, we set up a new literary blog, called "Traveling Bookworms". New books, favorite titles and other recommendations (not only ours), mostly connected to travel and the U.S.A., will be included. Right now, it's all in German, but this will possibly change or it will become a mix of texts in both languages.

If you are interested, please, see: https://travelingbookworms.blogspot.com, and, please, feel free to tell us what you think!

Thanks.

New York City's slow recovery

Since this following information is more of interest to Germans than to Americans, we decided to set up this following post about the general situation in the U.S and NYC's progress of returning back to "normal" in German language.

Während die weltweite Reisewarnung hierzulande am 15.6. aufgehoben wird – was allerdings zunächst nur für die meisten EU-Staaten gilt –, ist derzeit noch nicht bekannt, wann es europäischen Reisenden wieder möglich sein wird, in die USA zu fliegen. Voraussichtlich nicht vor August. Dort wiederum gilt die Grenzschließung für Europäer zunächst noch bis zum 21. Juni. Ein Ende des Einreisestopps für Ausländer aus Europa in die USA ist nach Angaben des Weißen Hauses derzeit jedoch noch nicht absehbar. Gegenwärtig dürfen lediglich US-Staatsbürger, Greencard-Inhaber, Personen, die in nahem Verwandtschaftsverhältnis zu einem US-Staatsbürger stehen, Diplomaten oder Mitarbeiter internationaler Organisationen, einreisen.

Wenngleich sich die Situation allmählich auch in den USA bessert und es dort Staaten, Regionen und Städte gibt, die bereits jetzt weitgehend zur Normalität zurückgekehrt sind – z.B. im weniger besiedelten Mittleren Westen oder in vielen Regionen des Westens –, sind große Teile Amerikas noch immer stark betroffen. Auch sind aufgrund der politischen Strukturen die Maßnahmen und Regeln in einzelnen Staaten sehr unterschiedlich.

Derzeit kommt erschwerend hinzu, dass es in mehreren Städten der USA nach der Ermordung eines Afroamerikaners durch einen Polizisten in Minneapolis zu Demonstrationen kam und kommt, die in vielen Fällen von gewalttätigen Ausschreitungen begleitet werden. In einigen US-Bundesstaaten, auch in New York, wurde die Nationalgarde aktiviert und traten zeitweise nächtliche Ausgangssperren in Kraft.



New York, New York!

Die nachfolgenden Ausführungen beziehen sich ausschließlich auf NYC, die von der Corona-Pandemie am schlimmsten betroffene Stadt, die mit über 205.000 Fällen und über 22.000 Toten die traurige Statistik in den USA anführt. Ende März wurde auf Geheiß von Gouverneur Andrew Cuomo NYC quasi stillgelegt, Restaurants geschlossen, Bauarbeiten gestoppt. Über 400.000 Arbeiter verloren über Nacht ihre Jobs.

Am 8. Juni trat nun Cuomos vierteiliger »New York Forward«-Plan in Kraft. Auf Baustellen und in Firmen liefen in Phase 1 die Maschinen wieder an, Läden dürfen seither »Pick-up Service« anbieten. Damit ist wieder etwas Leben in die Stadt zurückgekehrt. Die Verkehrsbetriebe MTA haben seit 8. Juni tagsüber wieder den Normalbetrieb von U-Bahnen und Bussen aufgenommen, zwischen 1 und 5 Uhr nachts liegt der Verkehr still, dann müssen die Züge desinfiziert werden. Die Staten Island Ferry verkehrt gegenwärtig alle 20 Minuten. Es wurden Straßen(abschnitte) für den Autoverkehr gesperrt um mehr Platz für Fußgänger und Radfahrer zu schaffen.

Wieder erlaubt sind Treffen von bis zu zehn Menschen, mit Abstand und/oder Maske. Wenngleich Masken in USA nicht generell obligatorisch sind, hat Cuomo Mund-Nasen-Bedeckung vorgeschrieben, wenn der Abstand von 6 ft. (1,83 m) nicht eingehalten werden kann, und immer im öffentlichen Nahverkehr und in Taxis.

Ab Ende Juni oder Anfang Juli sollen in Phase 2 Büros, Friseure und Läden (Innenflächen), mit Ausnahme von Malls, und Restaurant-Freiflächen wieder öffnen. Der Termin für Phasen 3 und 4 ist noch offen. Im 3. Abschnitt sollen Restaurants und Bars auch im Inneren wieder zugänglich sein, mit reduzierter Gästezahl und Sicherheitsmaßnahmen, und Hotels dürfen dann ihre Fitnessräume, Pools und Lokale wieder aufschließen. Phase 4 schließlich umfasst die Wiedereröffnung aller Kulturinstitutionen, Attraktionen, Museen, Theater und Kinos etc.

Die NYSE (Börse) hat inzwischen wieder zum Handel geöffnet, die Flughäfen waren nie geschlossen. Touristische Attraktionen wie die Statue of Liberty, Ellis Island, Empire State Building, Rockefeller Center oder Hudson Yards sind derzeit noch geschlossen, eine Wiedereröffnung ist im Sommer (August) denkbar. Viele Museen bieten dafür neue digitale Rundgänge und Ausstellungen an. Die Strände, z.B. Coney Island, sind geöffnet, allerdings nicht zum Schwimmen. Die Parks sind ebenfalls zugänglich, lediglich im Hudson River Park (Piers 45, 46) und im Domino Park in Williamsburg/Brooklyn wurden die Besucherzahlen wegen zu großen Andrangs beschränkt. Spielplätze und Sportflächen sind noch geschlossen, ebenso Botanische Gärten und Zoos.

Events aller Art sind noch den ganzen Juni über abgesagt, allerdings deutete Bürgermeister Bill de Blasio überraschenderweise und ohne Details zu nennen, kürzlich an, dass die 4th of July Fireworks stattfinden würden. Am Broadway bleibt es derzeit noch dunkel, ebenso im Lincoln Center.

• Details zum 4-Stufen-Plan: https://forward.ny.gov
• Virtuelle Touren/Besuche/Konzerte u.a.: www.nycgo.com/virtual-nyc