Coffee and Native Hawaiians

On a mission again: coffee. Kona coffee is known as one of the best arabica coffees worldwide and we are here to explore and to learn. Drove the Mamalakoa Scenic Highway through Olualoa - with a couple of old buildings (pic) and many galleries - to our first coffee plantation: UCC (pics below), followed by nearby Mauka Meadows, which offered a botanical garden at the same time. Both plantations are situated high up, steep slopes with coffee plants, both owned by Japanese companies, producing high-quality coffee in small quantities ("estate grown"). Most of the coffee goes to the Japanese market.

We drank quite a bit of coffee this morning and enjoyed a "private tour" at UCC. Learned a lot, e.g. that the coffee "cherries" are ripening gradually July to December and are hand-picked when turning bright red. The berries on the pic below are still green and unripe. Also, coffee plants bloom continuously from January to June. The plants are cut down every couple of years to keep them small and manageable. Branches are very flexible and can be bent down. They only bloom and have fruit on the newly grown parts of the branches. Steep slopes prevent picking by machines, as they do in Kauai with flat huge plantations. However, on Kauai, it's rather mass production and much cheaper and less high-quality produce. The pulp from the cherries (with the beans inside) is used as compost, and the skins are sometimes used similar to tea leaves.

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At Mauka Meadows visitors first walk through a lush botanical garden with a variety of plants - ginger, fruit and nut trees (like the starfruit tree on the pic), pineapples and other ornamental plants - as well as a variety of birds (like the gold finch on the photo). Paradise on earth! On the most prominent point was a pavilion offering great views towards the ocean. Sitting there, we watched a colorful little lizard on the ceiling, high up. The path leads to another open area, where coffee can be tasted and is sold packaged, with an infiniti pool in front and a sitting area.

It was pleasantly warm again, 85 deg. during the day, but cooling down at night. Even during the day always some clouds and a light breeze. Drives were rather short today, just a constant up and down on rather small, windy roads.

Then back to the roots: archeology at Kaloko-Honokohau National Historical Park, down at sea level. This old settlement of the Native Hawaiians is especially worth seeing because of the thoughtful construction of fish ponds (pic below) and fish traps and interesting petroglyphs. A canoe house (pic) is reconstructed at the beach in addition, to show how these settlers from Tahiti, who came in the 13th century, lived. On the trail down to the ocean we noticed some monumental breadfruit trees (pic), formerly an important part of nutrition. The flat ocean, where remains of the fish traps are still to be seen, is a habitat of Green Sea Turtles.

Kailua-Kona, the second-largest city on Big Island (approx. 12,000 people) is a rather touristic town, with a main street oceanfront, along which souvenir shops and galleries are lining up. Also, it's the start and finish of the famous Ironman Triathlon. Couple of historic buildings, too, like Hulihe'e Palace (king's residence) and the a church from 1836.

After an early dinner at Kona Brewing (Pineapple-BBQ Chicken pizza), we drove from the Harbor southwards along the ocean, passing several big hotel complexes and a couple of smaller, not too inviting beaches. Other than on Kauai and Maui, no high waves here, therefore, no surfers. Rather flat beaches with volcano stones.

Arrived "home" at sunset after a quick stop at a huge used bookstore and parked in front of a tall plumeria tree (producing the flowers the famous leis are made from)

Aloha Feeling

That was a not too long ago: sunset over the Pacific Ocean, looking towards Australia and Japan, taken from our apartment's patio. Birds of all kinds still give an evening concert, crickets are clittering, a little waterfall is making soothing noises,,, and we are happy.

Contrast: horror scenario yesterday in SLC: snow storm coming in, United Airlines mails a severe weather warning,,, How do we get to the airport, how do we get to Hawaii? Watched the Superbowl and tried to catch some sleep, but without much success. We left the motel at 4 am, fearing the snow and ice on the roads (about 10 in. of snow overnight!), but it was not that bad with our heavy car, and, it was only a 3,5 mi-drive to the airport. First, our plane was supposed to leave on time (surprise!), but then: thorough de-icing and suddenly the runway was shut down because of the icy conditions. Sat in the plane and waited. Waited. Eventually, a new runway was snow-plowed and ready to go. To make a long short: with about 1:45 hours delay we eventually were in the air (pic above shows Reno and Lake Tahoe). Never have seen so much snow before in an airport, couldn't even see through the plane's windows...

For the remainder of the day all went well, from San Francisco (we fortunately had enough time to change planes), we flew in a "retro" (Continental) Boing 737-800 (pic) and felt like sardines, chin to knees in a cattle wagon for almost 5 hours to Kona/Big Island. Had a time change of 3 hours in total today from SLC to Hawaii, 11 hours now to Europe. We arrived at our final destination 45 min. early, would never have thought this morning, that we'll make it at all!

Boy, what a difference when we exited the plane on the island!!! Humid, 86 deg. F. (30 C) despite of clouds, an airport (pic) without real walls, as always on Hawaii, Aloha-Feeling and "Hang Loose"-mood! Got our luggage, picked a midsize rental car (no Jeep, no Mustang, just a plain Nissan Sentra) and knew that we were on Hawaii, when we started our drive from the Airport towards Kailua-Kona: slow-going traffic, 45 mph max!

Apparently, we made a good choice with our first Airbnb apartment in Kailua-Kona: roomy, tastefully decorated and furnished, clean and quiet, luxurious, and, surrounded by sort of a tropical garden with bamboo, palms and ferns, plus tropical birds (and normal chicken), making noise.

Drove out again to do some grocery shopping at Safeway. We had completely forgotten, how expensive Hawaii is, should have bought stuff in Elko! Paid $ 5 for a local Dole pineapple - wondering, how they can sell them in Germany for 1-2 Euro a piece,,, - and restricted ourselves to the pure basics: beer, milk, yoghurt, fruit, granola, juice and frozen pizza for dinner as an exception. Too tired to still drive into town to eat.


Spent the rest of the evening on the patio, unfortunately it got dark at about 6:15 pm, but I was still sitting outside in a sleeveless shirt and shorts.

Under a "Bucking Horse Moon"

That's the title of a Zarzyski poem, sung by Whylie Gustafson,,, Though we didn't drive at night with the moon above us, it sort of felt that way,,, Before leaving Elko, we still bought some provisions for the flight tomorrow at Albertsons and noticed that "spiritual nutrition" was, what we mostly had for the last couple of days. Grabbed a coffee and a muffin or a sandwich or burrito in the Convention Center, and ate peanut butter out of the jar (me) or respectively Goldfish (Peter) as supper after a long day. Well, didn't miss "real meals" ,,,

Not only is the NCPG an "eye-opening event", but also the landscape is an eye-opener. So rugged, rough, sparsely populated. Wide open land with a couple of mountain ranges (like the Rubies on the pic), high dessert with sagebrush, endless horizon. I assume that only people with strong family roots can live here, no timid souls. From a viewpoint before Wendover (pic below) - approximately half-way - it's said that the curving of the planet earth can be noticed. We stopped, but couldn't really see the curving, but view extended many miles. Lots of Utahns seem to drive over to Wendover to gamble and get their booze, both available here because most of the town is still in Nevada. Shows again, how stupid strict religious (or other) rules are - like the ones the mormons set up (no stimulants of all kinds, etc.)!

On a casino's parking lot (where we stopped for a pit stop), we observed a scene which gave us to think: There was a rider on horseback on Main Street Wendover, riding on the walkway and stopping at traffic lights. A rather young man, his head covered by a hood, hunched and a bit unsteady on his legs, asked the rider something, but he didn't react (first) and rode on. After a certain distance he called out to the man and turned his horse so that they met half-way. The cowboy pulled out his purse and gave some dollar bills to the man. Then rode away again.

Smooth drive, 80 mph (135 km/h) is the speed limit most of the time. Arrived to SLC, and checked in the Microtel closeby the airport. We have stayed here last year, too. It's rather new, a little studio with fridge/microwave etc., bright and friendly and good value. From the window we see planes starting and landing. Out again soon to watch the Superbowl and grab a bite to eat.

Back from Squatter's in downtown SLC. Great bar, good beer & food, but lousy Super Bowl atmosphere. It's the third year in a row we are in SLC for Super Bowl, and, each time it was boring. The pub was crowded, but even at the bar no cheering, no talking,,, Next time we'll probably fly into Vegas or Reno and hope for better atmosphere.

Farewell to "The Elko"

It's over, the "Elko Blues" has set in. Four full days packed with fantastic music and poetry, films, discussions and speeches from 9 am to 10 pm ,,, and now,,, silence. Have to get used to this, again, and get into the "Aloha Mood". The pic above is from the exhibition they were showing in the Western Folklife Center about famous black cowboys, the one besides it shows the only comic with a black cowboy as a main character.


The morning started out with an interesting presentation about Holistic Management and grasing land on ranches, attended mostly by local ranchers, no fancy-dressed California "city dwellers" in the audience this time.

Next: some more of Geno Delafose and Wylie, this time in a smaller, more intimate setting ,,,

Drove into town afterwards to visit the Cowboy Arts & Gear Museum, and, back again to hear "Cowboy Stories", told by three black cowboys, an old rodeo cowboy (Jim Brooks), a young charismatic Texas cowboy and cook (Kelvin Arnsworth) and an Oakland cowboy by name Pete Taylor. So much fun when they talked about Cowboy dress code, roping styles and "cowboy vernacular" (the cowboy lingo).

At the "Artist Meet & Greet" we bid farewell to Californian cowboy John Dofflemyer, before we headed back (only a 5 min. drive) to the G Three Bar Theater for our first evening show "Straight Chutin' Champions". World's only and best poetry slammer Paul Zarzyski (photo on the right) kicked off the show, followed by newcomer/singer-songwriter Cat Clifford (pic below, left), an Oglala Sioux from Pine Ridge Reservation. Henry Real Bird (right photo) is a Crow Indian from Little Big Horn Valley, a staple at the Gathering and a stage-filling character. The evening was ended by a young black singer, Miko Marks, with an amazing voice. She was completely overwhelmed by the warm welcome she's got at her first appearance in Elko.

Second evening show in the large Auditorium in the Convention Center was called "Stay a Little Longer". Dom Flemons, again (can't get enough of this guy!), followed by Western Swing with Hot Club of Cowtown from Austin/TX. What a great bass player (not only good-looking!) and violinist Elana James was superb, too. At the end Dom Flemons (and a dog) joined them and they all delivered a great finale of NCPG 2020. Even the violinist's dog was enthusiastic on stage!

Fantastic event, getting better every year. Need to get back next year,,,
But right now, need to get out since snow is coming in.

Battle of the Bands

What a fantastic concert yesterday evening in the auditorium! "Battle of the Bands" with three bands, all of them equally great. Geno Delafose kicked off the evening with fine Cajun music, followed by Wylie & The Wild West (our all-time fav!). Wylie is always good for surprises and brought Paul Zarzyski "The Polish-Hobo-Rodeo-Poet" and poetry slammer on stage. He recited a poem and the two performed a wild dance on stage. Last band was Lund Corb & The Hurting Albertans from Canada, and they as well delivered a great show. Watching it from the orchestra pit, being close, was even a greater experience!

Geno Delafose:

Wylie and The Wild West:

Corb Lund & The Hurting Albertans