In the Air again... Toronto

Rain out of buckets on Thursday morning, when we departed - but, we were happy to get out ... though not necessarily to the cool northeast, to Toronto and NYC. Nevertheless, it's always better to visit NYC museums (or shops) in the rain than to sit at the desk in Augsburg in the rain... It's been a very long time we spent at home, last trip was end of May and since then we didn't fly anymore. Now it's our 57th trip to North America and our 19th visit to NYC.

We were flying Air Canada non-stop to Toronto, about 9 hours scheduled flight time. More heavily-armed police around MUC Airport than usually – no wonder considering the terrorist attacks and threats recently! Smooth flight, meals horrible as usually, but at least they were serving alcohol for free to anestethetize the taste buds.

Strange, that never ever anybody is complaining about immigration in Canada, but always about the situation in the U.S. The line we had at Toronto's Pearson Airport was much longer than all we've had in the U.S. for the last couple of years. At the end it took us about 30 min. to get through immigration, but that was mainly caused by the fact, that in Canada finger-printing and picture taking isn't practiced yet. Soon, Canada will introduce "ETA" (comparable to ESTA in the US) - a pre-registration system for European travelers - and then things will change again. But, for some strange reason, there won't be an uproar in Germany like with ESTA once.

Touch down at Toronto's Pearson Airport was at 3 pm, out of the airport at 4 pm, took the express bus at 4:10 – though it's certainly not the best (but the cheapest!) way to travel with big luggage - and had to change to the subway to get into the city center. It took us about 2 3/4 hours in total to arrive at the Chelsea Hotel, conveniently located in downtown Toronto. We threw our luggage into our nice corner room on the 23rd floor with a balcony and a great view towards the downtown skyline - and were out again after 10 minutes.

Though we were tired to the bones, we wanted to see the just-opened Christmas Market in the historic Destillery District and it was worth the 30 min.-walk along the completely changed King Street passing by nearby Dundas Square (the main square) where the Christmas tree was set up, too (see pic).

Lots of German produce was being sold on the Christmas Market, like Stollen from two local bakeries with German names, Jaegermeister (spiced), Merci and Ferrero and "Beergardens", where you can enjoy your mulled wine (Gluehwein) standing under heaters. Considering that about 50 % of the 2,8 mio. Torontonians are from other countries than Canada,many (historically) from Germany, no wonder!


Other boothes were selling arts & crafts, souvenirs, knitted caps, candles - in total not much difference to what we are having in Germany. A tall Christmas Tree was set up, also a Ferris Wheel (sort of strange!), a band played/sung Christmas song and smoked turkey legs - that's what we had for dinner (see pic) - were served as well as currywurst, chili, bratwurst with sauerkraut and local Mill Street Brewery beer. You've got it all!

We are in Canada, not in the U.S., we noticed immediately. Mentality is different, a little more rude, more European. Good thing is the hodgepodge of cultures and people, black, "yellow", white, Asian, African, American, Mexican, European ... living close together.

Salzburg – Mozart, tourists and craft beer

Salzburg - for the 2nd time this year! Mozart's city greeted us with blue skies and though we were doing research for another guidebook update – Salzburg is our second-best selling guidebook after NYC! – it was a great visit. We stayed in the beautiful Auersperg Hotel, a real gem, a little apart from touristic old town, in a residential neighborhood and therefore quiet and peaceful. We've stayed here before and love the modern and unpretentious atmosphere (pics show lobby and room), tastfefully and well equipped large rooms, the "mini spa" with sauna/steambath and rooftop terrace and, especially, the breakfast buffet, which consists of organic and local produce, great fresh breads and other baking goods every morning (best walnut cake in the world!), cheeses and cheese spreads, different cereals and fruit, yoghurts and juices...

When we arrived to Salzburg on Monday, our first walk from the newly opened, modern railroad station ended at "Weiserhof", a typical Austrian restaurant, where the owner and chef focuses on regional cuisine with home-made produce (like sausages and breads) and seasonal and regional goods. From the outside it's just your regular gasthaus with a beergarden in a rather undistinct residential neighborhood, but inside it's cozy and always packed with locals . They offer a lunch special (soup and entree) for just 8,80 Euro and our additional treat was the Germknödel - a fluffy yeast dough dumpling filled with plum jam and covered with poppy seeds and butter (see pic). To die for!

Good, that we walked the city afterwards to burn calories! In the evening we met with our friend Maria in Augustinerbrau, huge beerhalls and excellent beer. Self-service and great atmosphere, too. Completely different, but a good discovery as well, was My Indigo (pic), a rather new self-service restaurant with healthy food options (asian/vegetarian...). We met with the owner and enjoyed lunch there, which is offered by modular system: rice/noodles or some other grains served with some meat dish like curry or chili, or veggies, topped with herbs/avocado/tomatoes or similar. Also, delicious soups, sushi and cookies!

We revisited Mönchsberg and the Museum of Modern Art - the location on its own, offering a georgeous view towards the fortress, is worth the easy drive up by elevator, but they also always show interesting contemporary art exhibitions. Of course, we checked out old town around famous Getreidegasse in detail, to notice that again some of the family-owned and -operated, traditional shops shut down and new fancy chain stores opened up. Last stop in the late afternoon was Stiegl Brau, another (large) brewery in town. They offer great tours, have a new multimedia show and a museum. Strangely, like last time, we met a Swiss couple - again, from Zurich, again, working for public transportation. We shared a table after the tour for the free beer tasting, chatted and drank some beers and took the bus back into town together without even knowing each others names.

"Craft beer" is becoming a bigger deal, here in Salzburg, but not only . Stiegl and other breweries are producing craft beers in small quantities and a new "Bottle Shop" opened, selling craft/micro brews from all over the world. Amazing, how fast a wave from the U.S. hit Europe...

Because of the gorgeously blue skies we decided to take the lift to the fortress in the morning of our departure day. Bought some provisions on the market then before looking for a train back home. One only every two hours now (instead of hourly), due to the newly introduced border controls and the refugee registration/camps in Salzburg and Freilassing. It's become tricky for commuters (and visitors) to easily get into and, esp. out of Austria. Had to change trains in Freilassing, which was a pure chicanery since no passport controls took place at all. Politicians probably never take trains...

View of Domplatz with Balkenhohl's famous sculpture and nearby St. Peter's Cemetery:



View towards the fortress 1. from Makartsteg, famous for its "love locks" and 2. from Schloss Mirabell

OKTOBERFEST

The Oktoberfest in Munich is the largest fair worldwide. More than six million visitors in two weeks either get drunk and/or have fun with rides and other attractions on the "Wiesn". 16 beer tents are set up and six Munich breweries serve a special Octoberfest brew – very smooth and with elevated alcohol content – in 1-liter glass mugs (rarely steins anymore) for horrendous money: over 10 Euro for about a quarter gallon of beer! Mugs are never completely filled up anyway and everybody is giving an additional tipp. Nevertheless, consumption is enormous and money is rolling in. Tents are packed almost all the time and the later it gets, the more people dance on tables, sing loudly, get drunk and weird and crazy.



The "Olde Wiesn" is part of the whole area, so to say, a reconstructed historic section of the original beer fest – which BTW originates in the wedding celebration of King Ludwig with Therese in 1810. There are historic rides, old-fashioned boothes and vendors and only two beer tents with traditional Oompah bands (instead of mainstream modern pop songs to sing along) and traditional dancers attract local Bavarians rather than foreigners, and, middle aged people rather than young ones. There is an additional small entrance fee to the area, but it's worth the money: more authentic and less crowded.

We had a business appointment in Munich last week and since the meeting took place closeby the fairgrounds, we decided to give it another shot. We had experienced the Oktoberfest twice in the last three years: Once, in 2012, we came with American friends for the main parade on sunday and afterwards it was just pushing and shoving and we had no chance to find seats or get a beer in one of the tents. Two years ago then, we came for the (smaller) parade of the tent owners and breweries on Saturday, the opening day: No chance to walk the grounds or get a beer. This time it was rather comfortable, but it was a weekday afternoon and the weather wasn't too inviting. Therefore, we enjoyed our little excursion thoroughly, drank a "Mass" beer, listened to Bavarian music, ate roasted almonds and attended a show in the old Motodrom, where adventurous bikers on historic Indians drive suicidally in circles on straight vertical wooden walls.



Pics show different rides, beer tents and are supposed to give an idea of this huge beer festival, which became a beloved part of Bavarian history and tradition.

Fall Cattle Drive – "Viehscheid" in the Alps

We spent a beautiful four days in the Alps this week! It was our own birthday present – after AMERICANA and our involvment with Kansas and Oklahoma there, followed by a visit of four dear friends from Oregon for two full days of sightseeing, we just needed to get some R&R.

On sunday afternoon we drove to Oberjoch, closeby the Austrian border – a not too impressive little town in about 3800 ft. height, surrounded by mountains and ski lifts. In the off-season it's mostly a destination for hikers. Clouds were hanging low and until we got to see our booked "Panorama Hotel" (see pic) and our large room, we were pretty sceptical about our choice. It proved to be fully worth the money, especially on the first two days of our stay, when it rained most of the time. Then we had a pretty lazy, though active itinerary: sumptuous breakfast buffet - workout in the fitness room - swimming inside and outside - visit of one of the three sauna or steambath - a nap - a short hike - a 5-course-gourmet dinner.

This changed on our 3rd day, when the sun was out and it became warmer. We were fortunate and able to watch a fall "cattle drive" in the quaint town of Unterjoch. A herd of about 60 head was driven down from an "Alpe"  - a pasture higher up in the mountains with a cabin, about an hour by foot away. This event in fall (and in spring) is always a big deal in these mountain towns – school is off, boothes, vendors with local food and beer and lots of people watching ...

The cows were curried artfully and decorated with big bells and flowers and herders wore their sunday best. The two girls in the group were probably seasonal assistants, the bearded guys rather the professionals and one of them was taking care of the cabin (which is selling food and drinks to hikers in summer, too, and possibly also producing mountain cheese) year-round.

The cattle was settled and then sorted on a pasture in the town center, where the ranchers were waiting with trailers and trucks to pick up their cows and transport them home (which was not always easy since cows seem to be pretty stubborn!). The breed is mostly "Allgäuer Braunvieh", used both, for milk and beef, and for the most part heifers (and a couple of retired milk cows) are sent up to higher grounds to spend the summer there, to fatten up and get ready for calving. The rough winter they will spend closeby the ranchhouse or in stables.


We were hiking from our hotel's location down to Unterjoch, where the event took place. It was a beautiful hike of about 8 mi. round trip. On that day, which was my birthday, sun was out for the first time and we thoroughly enjoyed nature and peace and worked up an appetite and some aching muscles.
On our departure day the weather changed again (fast changes are common and can be pretty dramatic in the Alps),and on our way back home it started to rain at only 50 deg. F. Vacation is over and we are back to everyday life (without gourmet dinners and breafast buffets) and work ...

Just for fun: A visit to Vienna

Until about last year, we considered Vienna as being boring. We have visited a couple of times, first during studies (to study roman statues in the museums), then for research for a soccer book (European Championships 2008) and last year, for the first time, for fun. Thanks to a colleague, who lives in Vienna and is an expert in cultural and culinary aspects of his city, it's become a pleasure now.

Well, he "settled down" in the meantime, married and has a little baby boy, moved to a larger apartment in the suburbs and is renting out his old city apartment with his office in a typical Vienna residential neighborhood, close to Schubert's birth home and the famous Strudlhofstiege made famous by author Heimito von Doderer. He invited us over to stay there and since we were able to get cheap train tickets, too, we went for it. Unfortunately, he wasn't in Vienna at the time of our visit, but on a business trip, but, fortunately, he gave us good instructions for visits to "Heurige" – wine tastings.

The main wine region in Vienna is to the Northwest, on the slopes of Kahlenberg and Nussberg, usually with gorgeous views towards the city. Nussdorf, Grinzing, Sievering are some of the best-known, most important wine villages, but you'll have to be careful since there are big differences: There are some real big, touristy "Heurige", open all year round and rather a restaurant than an original "Buschenschank". These are usually operated by and often in a winery, serving only their own produce (as long as it lasts) and simple (cold) meals.

For the first time, we visited Nussdorf, where large areas are covered by vineyards. Some vintners, especially smaller family operations, arrange "pop-up heurige", just setting up a couple of chairs and tables and umbrellas on specific summer weekends to serve wine/snacks out of a shed or container in the vineyards. Focus is on the wines – from last year's production, which in Vienna is mostly white wines such as Weissburgunder, Riesling or Chardonnay.

We took the streetcar to its final stop in Nussdorf and hiked up the wine terraces for about 15 minutes, steep and hot. Our friend had given us description of the way to a vineyard. Without him we wouldn't have known about it, since they only publish their "open house" on the internet and send out emails to subscribers of their newsletter. It was well worth the sweat! "Windischbauer" is a rather small family operation, just offering their wines a couple of weekends a year directly in their vineyards. No fancy winery, store or tasting room.

The winemaker and owner himself was sitting outside, coolers underneith the table, and serving his two flagship wines: Weißburgunder and Riesling. A handful of tables and benches were set up, shaded by umbrellas. We guessed that a maximum of 30 people at the same time would fit in. Since we had made reservations we got the probably most romantic table with the best view of Vienna (see pics). Not too many "foreigners" came up to visit. Of course, we tried the wine and had a mediterranean inspired deli platter with sausages and cheeses, olives and chutneys and a bread basket to soak up the wine. All was prepared nicely by the winemaker's wife and daughter.



We chose the wrong order, that's for sure, but, also the two other "Heurige" which we visited afterwards, were worth the hike, too. Wieninger was a little larger, more of a permanent structure (open on summer weekends) with more tables and a broader spectrum of food and wines. View was still very good here, but much less romantic in total. Mayer, the third winery we stopped by, was more for the younger crowds, with deckchairs, a lot of food/drink offerings and a modern Austria-Pop band playing. We shouldn't have ended with the Heurige (the simplest and cheapest wine being served), but, since Peter is a good navigator, we found our way back to Grinzing, to the streetcar stop ...


Stephansdom (cathedral) contrasting to modern Haas Haus – Pestsaeule

With the exception of wine tasting we did quite a bit of sightseeing, passing by all the main sights, from Hofburg, Staatsoper to Schloss Schönbrunn, Stephansdom and Museumsquartier, Hofreitschule, Albertina and MAC, a great design & art museum, Donauinsel und UNO City (see pics). On the City Hall Square there was the annual summer festival with openair cinema and concerts (all for free!) going on and we enjoyed an Austrian singer-songwriter's concert. Also, Ottakringer Brewery had a brew festival with a different guest brewery each week going on and we tasted some beer and boar sausage one evening. Enjoyed the Naschmarkt (see pic), which is getting more of a deli than a farmers' market, and bought our favorite vinegar at Gegenbauer, and even more we liked the Brunnenmarkt (a real farmers' market, the largest in Vienna!). We ate in typical Vienna Beisln (restaurants serving traditional dishes for cheap) and walked the neighborhoods and had a lot of fun.


... and more sights (Staatsoper – Hofreitschule – Historic Old Town – Castle Schoenbrunn)