Salzburg - have been visiting often in the past! Only a 2.5 hours train trip from our hometown, it has always been a favorite weekend excursion destination. Since we have our guidebook on the market (Reise Know-How Verlag), for about 15 years, we are traveling to Salzburg regularly, to do research for book updates. Even during COVID this book sold pretty well and is right now our most popular guidebook out of 15 "CityTrips", even before New York!
We took the train on Monday late morning, all went well train-wise (for a change!). We stayed in the pretty "hip" new Cocoon Hotel opposite the main railroad station (photo of lobby area with breakfast buffet and building, which was a former energy management building below):
Out we went again to get a general overview, a first impression of what has changed and how. Walked Getreidegasse (photo below, left) and through historic old town with its many churches, its always present view towards the castle (right) and the Erzbischöfliche Residenz (photo far below) - seat of Salzburg Archbishops since 1120. The city was crowded, though the famous Festspiele didn't start yet. Construction of the stage for the famous play "Jedermann" in front of the cathedral was already in full swing.
Toured the city and ended up on Mönchsberg's slope, in Mülln, at Augustiner. This brewery & beergarden, founded in 1621 by monks, is in our opinion the most idyllic one in Salzburg. Beer is one of the best as well (they brew just one: Maerzen!), and, they have a good selection of "Brotzeiten" (cold cuts/cheeses/raddish, sausages etc.) to go with the beer (left pic).
Tuesday, we had a full itinerary, thoroughly and perfectly arranged by Salzburg Tourism. The day started at 8 am, with a talk in the hotel with the hotel manager of Cocoon, a rather new small chain of boutique hotels (after a superb breakfast there!), then on through old town to the Festung (castle). We took the funicular (right) up to the mountain, a short 5-min. trip. The newly offered "quick tours" proved to be interesting and concise. Afterwards, we revisited the archbishops' gorgeous apartments and the castle's museums, and, for the first time, heard the "Salzburger Stier" roar! Views from the Festung are always gorgeous and exhibitions became much more up-to-date in the meantime! Photos below show the castle itself - outside ring and core area "Hoher Stock" - and one exhibition in the museum.
View from the Festung in the direction of the Residenz and river Salzach (left), Krauthuegel art project (on lawn) and Untersberg (right).
Back in town we were able to get out of the heat (up to 95 deg F./around 34 deg C) at our next appointment: Mittagsmusik im Dom - a noon organ concert in the gorgeous baroque cathedral (built in the 1st half of the 17th century). They have seven organs and two musicians performed on six of them! The cathedral's guest manager afterwards showed us the vestries and brought us up to the balconies, which gave us completely different experiences and views!
Afterwards, we still had time to check out Rupertinum, part of the Museum der Moderne (modern art museum) on Mönchsberg. This branch in downtown was closed for renovations in the last years, but now shows interesting exhibitions in a pleasant atmosphere again. We enjoyed to look at Ruth Walz' theater photography, on exhibition right now.
We took busses all the time - Salzburg's main means of transportation – , but, also walked almost 20 mi (30 km) in two half and one full days. Fortunately, public transportation is included in the Salzburg Card, similar to American CityPASSes, but much more comprehensive. A great deal for tourists!
A bus brought us to the Botanical Garden next, operated by Salzburg University, and, a bit out of town. We joined a tour there, given by two doctoral candidates about wild bees in the garden. The garden itself - not too big, but nicely arranged and taken care of - is well worth a visit, the (free) tours are ideal for every garden/nature fan!
Last stop back in town - after having checked out Schloss Mirabell - was "Sonnenmohr" (photo below), a company which produces (healthy) herbal and moor products (from local moor fields) in a suburb of Salzburg. They operate a store in downtown and the manager explained their unique concept and products to us.
After a quick shower in the hotel - boy, it was a hot day! - we went out again, to meet with our tourism media contact for a delicious dinner at the Humboldt Stubn. Organic food, regionally sourced and sustainable, tasty and creative. On the photos below: Beef tartar and Vitello Tonato, which we had as appetizers. It's been a long, hot day, but highly interesting!
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