Tulsa, the second largest city in Oklahoma, is very well known in Germany for the song „Get your kicks on Route 66“ by Robert W. Troup, 1946 - an anthem to the famous overland route, initiated by Cyrus Stevens Avery from Tulsa and John J. Woodruff from Springfield/MO and begun in 1926. Different from the song the locals pronounce „Tulsa“ rather with an „u“ than with an „a“ and, besides that, Tulsa is not only worth a stop because of Rte. 66, to the contrary: Not much is left from the famous highway, but there is a lot of other history in town.
For example a fantastic conglomeration of art deco (and modern) buildings in the Art Deco District, reason, that Tulsa is also called the „Terracotta City“. Or, also interesting: the historic warehouses transformed to shops, restaurants and cultural/art institutions and museums around the popular Guthrie Green (also used for openair concerts and events) in the Brady Arts District. Next to The Brady, the Blue Dome District is another neighborhood to stroll, dine and wine: lots of bars, shops and restaurants there as well.
The city boomed until the 1970ies thanks to the oil industry and there were amazingly many wealthy, philanthropic businessmen in town, like Waite Philips (Philbrok Museum of Art) or Thomas Gilcrease. The Gilcrease Museum, a little outside town, is one of the top museums in the U.S.A. for Western (and Indian) Art and visitors are welcomed by an indian with bow and arrow, called „Sacred Rain Arrow“ by famous indian artist Allan Houser.
Reconciliation Park, close to the Brady, recalls a dark chapter in Tulsa’s history: the riots in 1921 when a florishing afro-american neighborhood, the Greenwood District, was burned down and many people died. This new park with its relief column, a labyrinth and markers not only recalls this event, but also what injustice happed before to the indians on the Trail of Tears. An impressive monument which makes you pensive.
We stayed in the historic Hotel Ambassador, surrounded by three or four impressive church buildings (we are in the bible belt!) and, again, had a great corner room, top floor, very cozy and comfortable, and, best thing, we had it for two (!) nights, which we appreciated a lot after arriving on friday evening after a 250 mile-drive. Also, we enjoyed great hospitality and dined excellently in the restaurant The Chalkboard in the hotel, perhaps our last steaks during this trip. After our meal with Vanesa and Abbie we were out to Cain’s Ballroom and that was another highlight: a concert of the 2014 Inductees of OK’s Music Hall of Fame, e.g. Elvin Bishop or JJ. Kale. Great atmosphere in this historic dance venue and superb music.
The „Tulsa Sound“ is something which is truly unique to Tulsa, but apparently the word has not spread yet. To us it’s comparable to Austin/TX in regard to a very mixed music scene, a broad variety of styles, great venues and famous artists from OK. Probably not too many people know about Tulsa’s music scene and we’ll certainly follow up on this. Austin, Brooklyn and Portland/OR are being admired all the time, but who knows about Tulsa?
And yet, Tulsa has great tradition: Woody Guthrie, the famous songwriter and musician (but also a poet and artist) was born in Oklahoma and became famous for his „unofficial anthem“, „This land is your land“. The fantastic Woody Guthrie Center in the Brady District recalls this singer. It’s not really large, but nicely arranged, with listening-stations, videos, relicts, photos, letters, maps etc. of Guthrie and his compagnions - like Pete Seeger or his son Arlo -, his successors (like Bruce Springsteen) and, it also talks about his influence on musicians all over the world till today and his political and social engagement. What a character this guy had been!
Though it’s been cold in the morning we had enjoyed another mostly sunny day in Tulsa, long and exhausting, but highly interesting and full of new experiences.
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