"Wonders of America": Towels and Work Mentality

Let’s start with something trivial: Why are regular American towels smaller than German ones and cannot be wrapped around the head when having washed your hair? Is it because Amerians don’t wrap towels around their heads? Or don’t they care because most go regularly to the hairdresser anyway (like they always have manicures and pedicures instead of doing their own nails)? And, why are wash clothes like tiny little towels and not like the gloves we Germans use? By the way: We use American wash clothes for cleaning shoes or suitcases …

More serious topic: work mentality and exploitation. A guy by name Robert Propst, a designer for the Herman Miller furniture company out of Michigan invented the cubicle in the 1960s, a partly enclosed tiny workspace. What a revolution! Penning up much more employees in one large room was possible now. I am not sure who and when "teamwork" was invented, but I’d like to say that it’s an American invention as well as job sharing or part-time work.

America was and is very progressive when it comes to work efficiency. Not always for the benefit of employees. Still today exploitation in jobs is obvious, at least in the eyes of a German. Let’s state facts first: in Germany minimum vacation is 24 days (once you are at least six months on the job) and it increases with age and duration of the job, up to 30 days – which amounts to six full weeks of vacation! In addition, there are around 15 additional legal, paid holidays. No wonder, "Brueckentage" ("bridge days") is a German word invention for cleverly managing to get a lot of vacation time by using holidays and paid vacation days in combination. In Sweden and the Netherlands they get even more vacation days, by the way.

In the U.S. usually, at least for the first decade or so in the job, it’s an average of two weeks of paid vacation time. It may add up to a maximum of three or four weeks someone is at the same company for a long time and climbed up the career ladder. Hierarchy and titles are important, though everybody is on a pseudo-collegial basis.

As a German, figure out the following situation: It’s mid-August, kids on school vacation and you would like to take off for two weeks as well… Forget about it, you will most probably draw a blank in the U.S. Two weeks at once? No way. In summer? How long are you with the company already? Well, are you still wondering why Americans usually go on a 10-day-whirlwind-trip all over Europe?

Overtime in general isn’t paid for, if you are lucky you can be reimbursed with "free time". But no tourism rep would mind spending a Saturday or Sunday with a journalist, if necessary, or to have dinner late at night, though they won’t even get reimbursed for the time spent sometimes, just get a free meal as a pay. In Germany? Preferably no meetings after 5 pm and not on weekends. If inevitable, only grudgingly, not with a smiling face. Weekends are a sacred cow, 9-to-5 worktime a verse in the bible and more than 10 minutes of overtime will be documented.

"Personal days" (or "PTO" - personal time off) in America are days you either get paid for or not (depending on the employer), unlike sick days, and like vacation, they usually must be planned in advance. It could be it for appointments or to deal with a personal matter. Paid personal days - usually two a year – are like sick leave an employment benefit and optional. Americans have a certain number of sick days being paid, depending on state, city, company, boss … Meaning, you can’t just call in sick whenever you feel like it (like in Germany) and stay home, fully paid. The U.S. does currently not require that employees have access to paid sick days. Maybe that’s the reason, productivity in America has been rising constantly for the last decades …

The United States is the only advanced economy that does not require employers to provide paid vacation time. Many employees do not receive any paid vacation or paid holidays at all, especially low-wage, part-time and small businesses are concerned. Also, paid legal holidays also are not naturally granted. Are you still wondering why "burnout" also is an American invention?

I am wondering why birth rates are still higher in the U.S. than in Germany. Life is not at all easy for pregnant and new mothers in America. Paid "maternity leave" is unusual in the United States. Though most companies allow their employees up to 12 weeks of unpaid leave time after child birth, the average is 2-3 weeks of unpaid leave, Many women technically aren't even eligible for unpaid time off. They can apply for short-term disability (wow, didn’t think becoming a mother is a "disability" - what about political correctness here?) to cover a portion of the salary— but nevertheless… In Germany women get their full salary from six weeks before giving birth to eight weeks after. Then they receive "Elterngeld", 300-1800 Euro depending on income, for a maximum of three years. After this time, a comeback in the same company is guaranteed (not necessarily exactly the same job, but equivalent).

America is the cradle of democracy, the birthplace of social changes and political correctness, but why, please, are work conditions still handled this haphazardly and differently? For Germany: Why, please, is everybody complaining about having to work so hard considering vacation time and other benefits?

"Wonders of America" – About Patience and Hectic

"Wonders of America" or short "WoA"“ is a new column, which is not really about "wonders", but about particularities in America, especially in comparison to Germany. We will take the liberty of discussing different topics of American everyday life, mentality, lifestyle, society etc. which we found interesting during our travels. Don’t want to judge, condemn or puff something up, just want to state observations and experiences and encourage contradiction or confirmation or discussion. Would love to hear about your own experiences and get your opinion.

Originally, I planned to write about washing machines . You may wonder: Why washing machines? Reason is that I was wondering at our friends’ places while washing our laundry about a couple of things: 1. Why are top loading washers in America much more common and 2. Why are they much faster than our washers? Just needed about 45 minutes for one (big) load in warm (30 deg. C) washing cycle (at home about 75 min. average). Most Germans use front-loaders, though we have a top-loader at home because it’s smaller. Ours is constructed differently from American machines: with a horizontal axis rotating drum whereas americans do have a vertical-axis and a water-pumping agitator in the center of the bottom of the basket. Is that the reason for washing quicker?

As much as I would love to know more about the secrets of American washing machines, I am even more interested in the reasons for a more "social" phenomenon: patience and hectic. Imagine standing in line at the cashier of a german supermarket. Boy, you have to be fast to remove your grocery items after they are scanned, otherwise you will be buried underneath, no mercy. Speed is most important at the belt and the cashier (possibly being paid by revenue) is getting impatient if you aren’t fast enough to remove your items from the small piece of storage area you are having. So better don’t dare to go alone, you’ll need four hands at least. Throw everything back in your cart quickly, just take care of eggs and soft fruit, if you can. Don’t dare to look for change when paying your tab for too long, throw them a bill or a card and go, go, go. Otherwise, you won’t make people happy.

In America … completely different piece of cake. The cashier (or a helper) packs all your groceries conveniently and systematially in bags. By the way, "paper or plastic?" the former question, is not common anymore, difference nowadays is mostly between regular and organic supermarkets. You are welcome to take your time to stand in line, to pay and/or to discuss a produce’s quality or price, the weather or sports results. If you are immobile in some way or old or helpless, there are additional people on call in supermarkets who will roll out the cart to your car and help you put it in the trunk.

Change of scenery: In an American restaurant. You have a reservation in some good, but not top-notch restaurant. You will be lead to your table by the manager, menus being handed over. You are not quite seated (and looking around in vain for some place to store your jacket or coat, at least Germans usually have this problem) and the waiter shows up and asks what you want to drink. You haven’t even had time yet to look at the menu, not to talk about the wine list with its 50+ choices and about 30 "hand crafted" cocktails (wondering how else cocktails can be made …). About three minutes go by, same question again about drinks, plus: a much too fast recited list of daily specials. If you are lucky, they give you another five minutes to decide about your meal. Asking you about the way of preparation, the kind of dressing, the sides or sauces takes takes comparatively long then. Americans are pretty picky and ask about each and every detail before they order. They tend to rearrange and substitute and change. Drinks will be served, appetizers as well. Plates will be removed as soon as a guest "appears" to have finished with it, no matter whether just taking a break or wanting to share with companions, and no matter whether the other guests at the table are still eating from their plates. In Germany it’s a rule to remove all empty plates at the same time, which, I think, is a good rule for a change.

No break for guests: entrées will be served immediately afterwards, followed by dessert. Three courses in 30 to 45 minutes – not a problem at all! If your glass is half empty - not taking tap water into consideration, which is fortunately refilled all the time and complimentary (listen, german restaurant owners!) – you’ll be immediately asked whether you want a second drink. Last forkful of food being eaten, plate will be removed, the classical (faux) leather case with the check will be discretely set in front of you. Tipps are another thing to talk about, but that’s a topic of its own. Now, for "well-traveled, seasoned" Americans this can be the right moment for revenge, meaning they ignore the leather case and don’t pay immediately. Waiter will check a couple of times, mostly from the distance, but can’t do much. The majority will pay and leave the table to make room for the next guests. Wondering how many guests an evening some restaurants can process. Sitting and chatting is not welcome, motto is: eat and go.

A restaurant in Germany. You choose your table yourself. Service is much too slow and often grumpy. It takes forever until you get a menu, can order, until you get served and get your check. Problem is, that there is much less service personal. Problem is, also, that the employees are not predominantly paid by tips as in America, but get fixed monthly wages (whether that's good or bad is another question). Sometimes even not all people at a table get their meals at the same time, later they possibly sit in front of an emptied plate forever – like on the plane – and have to holler to get the check or an additional drink. On the other hand, you can sit and chat and take your time. Objections?

Another example: Americans show immense patience when standing in line, e.g. waiting for a restaurant table. Thirty minutes to an hour without reservation (or even with one) is not an exception. No German (right?) would wait longer than ten minutes for a table, if even that. There are always other options.

Patience is also asked for in America when getting off a plane or train or bus. Since everybody is waiting for the one sitting in front of him/her (which is a good idea in general, because it is „practiced politeness“ and avoids being pushed around or overrun) it can be annoying, when the person in front of you needs to check the phone first, to send a facebook message or to repack the bag before thinking about getting up. Not noticing that people behind are piling up and that she/he causes a traffic jam.

Patience at auto rental offices, big deal. Employees usually do have all the time in the world, patiently explaining to customers for the umpteenth time the difference between a compact and a midsize car or what insurance to take, while another ten people, tired from a long flight and heaving around heavy luggage, wait more or less patiently to eventually sign the contract and get the booked car to drive to the hotel to get some sleep.

Not an example for patience, but in contrary, an example for harassment are american hotels. Especially in upper-category city hotels employees tend to remove your car as soon as you slam on the breaks in front of the entrance. They rupture the driver’s car door open ("Are you checking in?") and it’s almost impossible to get yourself oriented first and to collect more than your purse. They throw your luggage on a cart faster than you are able to find your reservation number and hand you a slip for the car - that’s it. You can’t even think about what you need in the room and what could be left in the car. Besides the tip you are supposed to give each time you request your car ("Please, call at least 15 min. in advance!") they charge up to $ 60 a night nowadays for parking in downtown hotels. Almost as much as a Motel 6 would cost in a rural area!

"Thank you for your patience" - is a common phrase, e.g. when trying to redeem a shopping voucher for a gift card or waiting in line forever. It may sound polite, but acutally sometimes it's hard to muster patience. Sometimes it’s just an excuse for people’s incompetence or ignorance or stupidity. But, it sounds much better than to admit not to be able or not to know how to do something. Patience is a big deal in America, but 1. it can get annoying and 2. it’s not applicable to all issues. But, there are always two sides of the same coin. In America and in Germany.

Back to Reality...

Arrived home on Friday noon. Flights were on time and smooth and our friend Silvia picked us up at MUC. Didn't sleep on the plane, but stayed awake until 9 pm, nevertheless. Since then, laundry, putting stuff away and the apartment in order, grocery shopping and the garden kept us busy and up and going. Fortunately, the weather is fine, unfortunately we are horribly tired.

Our 7-week trip is over, it's been an interesting trip, and we are back to everyday life, meaning we'll be back in the office full-time tomorrow morning. Two books to be accomplished this week. Looking forward now again to reading your emails (and/or comments) and, as always, won't let an email unanswered.

I enjoyed writing the blog, though it was an awful lot of work and required quite a bit of discipline in the evening to regularly keep up with it. Hope you all enjoyed reading it, knowing myself that it was anything else, but perfect. We plan on continuing the blog as sort of a weekly column. Will possibly call it "Wonders of America" and write about the things we noticed being so different in the U.S. compared to Germany. By doing so, we would love to get your comments. So, please, stay tuned, thanks for your attention and for making me proud of the 1100+ clicks.

Home sweet home???

Thursday morning our first (most hated) task was to pack, which wasn’t easy after seven weeks on the road and two conferences. We had quite some „discussions“ about the number of pieces of checked luggage and about what to take with us and what to leave (like Made-in-China plastic Las Vegas lamps or Mardi Gras beads). At the end we had three heavy pieces (each almost max. weight of 50 pounds) and two (large) carry-ons plus a backpack and a purse. After strenuous packing and a hot bath to wash off sweat we went for a last stroll on Mag Mile to get some coffee and to do some last-minute shoppng (small items only!).

We checked out early, for lack of enthusiasm to do something useful, and caught the 11:30 am bus departing from our hotel. Arrived to O’Hare Airport at noon, but our Lufthansa counter (not in the highly-praised brandnew International Terminal, but in old Terminal 1) didn’t open until 12:45 pm. Of course. we had to pay for the extra piece of luggage ($ 100!) and – never had that before – at the gate they later weighed the hand luggage before boarding. Of course, many people "forgot“ to bring some of their stuff to the counter for weighing and getting a "cleared cabin baggage“ badge…. Friendliness was rather restrained, but at least we got two seats in the first economy class row of this Boeing 747-8 (the new „Jumbo“ with two levels) – meaning, we had a bit more leg space and I had the separating curtain directly in front of my face. The plane had electric outlets at the seat, but it felt like the seats were a bit narrower than on other planes.

Security took about 30 min. and take-off was about half an hour delayed. Nevertheless, with a lot of tail wind flight time was 6:40 hours only and we arrived to Frankfurt earlier than scheduled at 6:30 am.

While waiting in line at the LH counter in Chicago, at the security check and later for boarding, we got confirmation for what we already noticed during the two conferences: how rude and unpolite many people from foreign countries are, especially from asian countries (mainly China), from Eastern Europe and from Central/South America. They often ignore lines, basic rules and politeness. Don’t want to generalize and don’t want to sound prejudiced, but there is at least a grain of truth in it.

Don’t get it: Why can’t they just serve a good sandwich or wrap or a "Belegtes Brot“, wrapped in wax-paper, plus a tomato or a pickle and an apple instead of these many teeny tiny containers with horrible food and lots of plastic? Same for almost every airline in the cattle class. Today’s choices only included "vegetarian“ or "chicken“ - both equally tasteless. In addition, they are now saving the salt & pepper packages, but hand out metall cutlery. LH still serves alcohol for dinner, but we would rather have prefered a decent breakfast instead of a muffin, some fruit cubes and dry cookies.

It’s over!

The last two days time was flying. Press conferences, appointments, inofficial meetings and „chats“, mostly to refresh old friendships and business relations. IPW mostly is about meeting people and about sticking in their memories. Actually, it’s been a good conference in total, though it was so much different from Go West in Tacoma before. Apart from size it’s much more „formal“ and much more about big events and parties, seeing and beeing-seen.

San Francisco, as always, had the craziest party during IPW, at the historic Palmer House Hilton. I was wondering how much these (six-pack-loaded, handsome) guys earn for standing on stage, some in sort of a cage, in heavy boots (but not much else) and dancing all evening, while enthusiastic high-heeled ladies in little black dresses or equally fancy dressed gentlemen showed off in front of them on the dancefloor.

Yesterday, lunch was sponsored by different U.S.States and typical specialities were served buffet-style (see pic). Also they had special presents (like cowboy hats from Texas, and P. of course, needed one...) and special activities (like photo shootings or signings) going on.

The closing party in the evening took place in the Museum of Science & Industry on the former World Exhibition grounds from 1892/93, situated south of the Loop. They had elaborately designed different Chicago neighborhoods in the museum and were serving the matching ethnic food, though in small quantities. As always, alcohol was served in abundance. Wished more anti-alcoholic cocktails or juices or such would have been available. Several stages again, main attraction was the performance of local singer Jennifer Hudson. Many went crazy about her, not us.

Would have loved to hear more Blues, assuming that Chicago would emphasize its very own musical roots. Unfortunately there was not much, e.g. no Buddy Guy – the local Blues hero – or another blues band. Also, wished that at least one event would have taken place closer to or in downtown. Conference people didn’t have much opportunity to see the city, since we were always brought out of town by busses, always to the south. And, Deep Dish Pizza, allegedly invented in Chicago, was offered at none of the parties or events.

Yesterday in the afternoon we checked out more neighborhoods for our guidebook. We took the bus to the Museum Campus with the Field Museum, the Adler Planetarium (see pics) and the Aquarium. From there we enjoyed the gorgeous view of the Chicago skyline with blue skies! Navy Pier is under construction, so that may have been a reason that they didn’t choose this place for one of the parties. It's become warmer the last days, but still, the landscape is pretty brown and dull, trees leafless still.

Acting on autopilot ...

It’s like being on drugs, on the fast track without exits, or on autopilot for the last couple of days at the conference. You have to be so focused and "present" all the time, which gets exhausting and even at night my head is spinning.

The tourism conference IPW - which stands for „International Powwow“ (name was changed last year to the abbreviation IPW because of political correctness) - started sunday morning at 8 am with the „German VUSA Breakfast“ (VUSA is part of U.S. Travel Organization) in our hotel’s ballroom. Media Brunch at Hancock Center followed, and we enjoyed great views from the observation deck (see pic), especially since the sun was out for a change. Chicago restaurants had set up food boothes and we enjoyed a variety of specialities; it’s just been kind of difficult to find something else to drink but alcohol.

The mayor gave a speech and around noon busses left for different media tours. I had chosen the culinary tour, Peter the sports tour (including parts of a Cubs baseball game), both so-so. Back to the hotel at 5 pm and on to the Grand Opening Party at some film studios called "Cinespace" in the outskirts.

Huge halls, several stages with DJs and bands and other acts, and rowing up around food and drinks in abundance. Other than at previous powwows they had seating areas and at least you weren’t forced to balance a glass and a plate while socializing. Also, the food, different restaurants served was really good. Best porkbelly I’ve ever had. Unfortunately the high noise level made communication difficult.

Yesterday we had to get up early for a press conference at 8 am. Monday is „Media Day“ and in the morning we were running around in one big ballroom to talk to different suppliers/tourism people sitting at tables. We’ve been told that about 500 journalists from all over the world are present, the german group consisted of 17 journalists. In the afternoon we had our own table where people stopped by to introduce their destination or produce. Inbetween: lunch and entertainment. Musicians from bands like Santana, Boston or Lynyrd Skynyrd were playing on a large rotating stage in the center. What a strategic challenge to feed 6.200 attendants at the same time!!! Also, what an effort to arrange transportion for all these people by busses, from about 10 different hotels to the convention center and back, to parties and tours. Don't know how many volunteers are involved, but for sure many.


After "Media Reception" back to the hotel at 6 pm to dress down. Have been invited to dinner by tourism friends of us and had our last steak in the U.S. for this trip. Too noisy for conversation, as usually in american restaurants. On to the Texas Party, and, corresponding to their state slogan: it was "BIG". Several hundreds of people were invited to a nightclub called EPIC. It was packed! We still got in without problems, but later there was a „1-in, 1-out“ rule and lines were long at the entrance. "Home“ at about 10 pm.

Press Conferences all morning today. We skipped lunch with New-York-style Broadway entertainment (same like last year) and worked instead in the press room with popcorn for lunch. Media will be permitted on the trade floor after lunch and we do have our first appointment at 2 pm. End of appointments will be at 5 pm and at 6 pm the first of four parties today starts.

Sun's out !!!

Sun!!! We got up early this morning to get good pictures with blue skies. We packed first and had a quick breakfast before we went out for a photo tour in the Loop. Back to the hotel at 11 am to warm up (it was still cold at approx. 40 deg F) and to check out. Moved to the official IPW (U.S. Travel Association’s International Tourism Powwow) german delegation's hotel, the Conrad, just around the corner. Of course, we walked, each of us with two pieces of luggage plus bagpacks and - what a surprise! - got our room at 11 am already. Good hotel!!! Bathrooms are best we’ve had for a long time: comfortable bathtub, shower and separate toilette. The room is perfect as well, though a bit smaller than the one we had at Hotel Kinzie and it doesn’t have a coffemaker.

After check-in and quick unpacking we took the IPW bus (which is departing at the neighboring Marriott Hotel) to the McCormick Convention Center to register for the conference (www.ipw.com) and to get our official media badges. On to nearby Chinatown by train, to check out what has changed there (not much - it’s one of the few Chicago neighborhoods which is still pretty „authentic“) and afterwards, we took the train all the way to the west, to Oak Park, the neighborhood where famous architect Frank L. Wright started his carreer, worked and lived.

Oak Park is about 15 miles away from downtown but it's a world on its own, quaint, peaceful and green. Back to the city and to our hotel at 4 pm to freshen up. Out again at 5:30 pm to attend our first party: Colorado had invited to „Farmhouse" at River North. It's been a rather small,but enjoyable party with Colorado producers (attention, Dom!) being present: destillers, brewmasters, farmers (great cheeses!) etc. It’s been fun and though we drank more than we ate, we enjoyed it. Back to the hotel at 9 pm.

Love it or hate it

This morning we had a „Chicago Greeter Tour“, walking tours which are offered for free by volunteers living in a certain neighborhood. Same institution exists in New York. So, we met with Jim in Lakeview and explored the two most interesting neighborhoods: Boystown - the nucleus of the LGBT community - and Wrigleyville.

"Wrigleyville" is derived from „Wrigley Field“, the legendary ballpark which turns 100 this year. It's the second oldest ballpark after Boston's Fenway Park. Since it was the opening day of the Cubs baseball season today, fans were lining up already in the morning for the afternoon game. Peter will attend a game on sunday on an IPW media sports tour while I’ll be eating my way through Chicago's famous restaurants in the meantime on a culinary tour. Our guide - who, by the way, is leaving Chicago each winter for two months to rent a place in some warm place - showed us his (former) neighborhood.

Chilled to the bones we took the train to Lincoln Park, but first we warmed up on the brown line train on a 15 min. Loop sightseeing tour. Checked out things in Old Town - famous for its blues clubs - and walked Schiller and Goethe Street in Gold Coast (fancy homes there!). In the late afternoon we took the train back to the hotel. First thing was a hot bath and a hot tea, second was to accomplish an article on Chicago for AMERICA Journal.

The wind was horrible today, colder than yesterday. „Felt temperature“ ("gefühlte Temperatur") was about 30 deg F instead of the 40 deg F in reality. In such inhospitable weather Chicago is a city hard to love. We didn’t even want to leave the hotel anymore, so we settled for appetizers during cocktail hour in the hotel. And, now, after work is (mostly) done we are watching old series of M.A.S.H., which we both love. It's our favorite TV series besides "Cosby Show" and "Friends". Unfortunately, in the hotel they don’t have Food Network or History Chanel... should we mention that on the comment card???

Exploring the Windy City

Fortunately we’ve been to Chicago a couple of times before and know the city pretty well. Therefore it didn’t matter too much that we didn’t see as much today as we had originally planned. Main reason was the weather: till early afternoon it rained out of buckets. First we checked out the Chicago Cultural Center, #1 destination for tourists, with Visitor Information, free internet, exhibitions, events and two marvelous domed halls with Tiffany glass and lamps.

On to the Santa Fe Building, where the Chicago Architecture Foundation not only offers very interesting (architectural) tours but also has a nice shop and a worth seeing city model. In the Art Museum, across the street, we especially love the contemporary art section in the New Wing (a great expansion by Renzo Piano), added to the historic building. Also, the paperweight collection and the miniature rooms in the basement are unique. Couldn’t elude the greek & roman antiquities, of course.


In Bucktown (which merges into Wicker Park) we went to our favorite (mostly second-hand) bookstore, Myopic Books, but confined ourselves to one single book and 15 minutes!!! Gentrification is obvious in this popular neighborhood, some old shops and restaurants are gone, new, fancy ones (partly chains) opened up. Found a great new donut shop (Stan’s Donuts) - with an enormous variety of this commodity. It serves Intelligentsia Coffee (very popular with the young & hip) for half the price it would have cost in Pasadena/L.A.

Walked Mag Mile afterwards, but only visited „900 North Michigan Shops“ at the end because we had received gift vouchers worth $ 50 each for that mall during the last tourism convention in Las Vegas. Boy, this was a mistake... First, it took us about 3/4 hour to notice that we won’t get much for $ 50 in these shops. Eventually we were lucky and found a reduced Ralph Lauren shirt and a sleepshirt at Bloomingdale's which would have fit the bill. But … at the cashier we were told that we need to redeem the voucher first at Visitor Services. Not Bloomingdale’s Visitor Services, but the Mall’s, meaning we had to walk criss-cross the mall. It took us another 20 min. to get a Gift Card in exchange for the voucher which we still needed to activate by making a phone call and telling them a couple of different numbers/passwords "for security reasons".
Back to Bloomies where the gift card worked after a couple of tries. Since we got some unexpected "special what-a-wonderful day 20% rebate" on our chosen items we had $ 14 left on the card and tried to buy some cosmetics in another store. They told us after some time-consuming calls that they don’t accept gift cards. Didn't give it another try. We really deserved our cocktails and appetizers in the hotel afterwards for all the patience we mustered today. Now we do own a single piece of Ralph Lauren each, for regular prices we would never have paid otherwise („Made in China“).

CHICAGO!

Arrived in Chicago at 4 pm yesterday afternoon and at 5 pm we finally checked into our hotel. It took the taxi – which we would never have taken if we wouldn’t have had that much luggage – almost 20 min to cover the short distance from the railroad station to our hotel close to Trump Tower and Mag Mile. Reason was a street blockage because of Mr. President’s visit to his home town for some fundraiser. They shut down many downtown streets during rush hour. For the first time we had a van taxi driven by a handicapped gentleman.

I had been fantasizing about a bathtub and cheese popcorn - apart from a comfortable bed - and we were positively surprised when we checked in this new boutique hotel „Kinzie“. We got a spacious, nicely designed and furnished room in the top (6th) floor, with a large bathroom and a bathtub, which is not common for boutique hotels anymore. In addition, we got to know that a „cocktail reception“ is about to start and that breakfast is inclusive as well. When we found two tin cans full of Garrett popcorn in the room it was paradise in heaven.

We unpacked, checked emails (finally!!!) and went over to the lounge for a cocktail and appetizers. Then we just walked around the block - and, accidentially happened across two reps from the german IPW delegation - to Trader Joe’s, and noticed that it’s much cooler than we assumed. Had been spoiled in the South and even got some tan which will fade soon in this weather. Lots of emails and work to catch up with, TV is on, already had withdrawal symtoms after so many days without. Unfortunately no Food Network and no History Channel…

Slept very well and just had breakfast in bed from the buffet being set up in each floor's hallway. Heavy thunderstorm this morning and raining out of buckets. Won't make our planned neighborhood checks easy today.

All aboard!

Be advised that this is going to be an unusually long post, since the train trip has been so long …

3-31-14 „Natural wonders“

6:30 am - Getting up and ready to bring our three heavy pieces of luggage across the street to the AMTRAK station for check-in (2 pieces per person are free). The train is supposed to be on time, even early. Back to the hotel, check-out and pickup of hand luggage.

The train arrives at 7:30 am and we were let into our car and to our „Roomette“, rather a „cell“ than a „room“. Sleeping compartments are larger and more comfortable but cost about double the price. Glad, that we have some experience in storing luggage in the meantime. There are problems with the restrooms and showers in this car which were repaired at the station by the chief conductor himself.

8:20 am - „All aboard“ - for a 2226 mi trip. The 9-car-train departs Tucson and starts crawling through the dessert, passing some large fields with solar panels. Haven’t seen many before, though one would assume that they are very effective in a hot state like AZ. Breakfast is still being served and is - as all meals are - included in the ticket of sleeping car passengers; also coffee, juices and water are always available in the alleyway. Haven’t been in the mood for scrambled eggs or pancakes, prefered our own grapefruit and oranges brought over from Scottsdale.

10 am - Crawling by Dragoon Mountains, through Willcox Dry Lake & Bombing Range, the flat sandy bottom of a former lake used as a military training ground now. Lunch reservations being taken (there are time slots you can choose from).

11 am - Getting close to the New Mexico border. A couple of nut plantations to be seen on the way. Pretty flat and boring landscape. Time change to Mountain Time (MT).




Noon - lunch in the dining room. Several choices, e.g. sandwich, burger, salad, soup etc. Burger was o.k. Still crossing the southern part of NM, which is everything else but densely populated. No cacti anymore, but tumbleweed and low bushes and shrubs. Sitting in the sightseeing car to enjoy a better view and a little more legroom.

4 pm - Approaching El Paso/NM, passing a huge new freight train terminal. Mexican border runs directly alongside the train treck and the mexican settlements look pretty depressing, poor and dirty. Crossing the Rio Grande into Texas before our short stop in El Paso, famous for its bootmakers and other producers. Train had to make up for a delay of approx. 40 min. There was some emergency in the dining car, somebody fell and paramedics embarked the train in El Paso. Apparently all is fine now.

We have taken the „Sunset Limited“ from L.A. to New Orleans once in the early 1990s. Our current train (running three times a week) is a combination of Sunset Limited and Texas Eagle. In San Antonio the train will be separated: part of it goes to New Orleans, ours as the „Texas Eagle“ to Chicago.

Always liked train travel and even planned a book about train travel in the U.S.A. It’s mostly elderly couples, black people, mexican families, military personel and students on the train. One young lady is moving to TX by train with her kid and mother, one black guy attended a funeral in L.A. and the train trip was cheaper than a flight on short notice, another elderly couple from California didn’t want to take a plane to visit relatives in Oklahoma. Another advantage of train traveling is that more luggage can be transported.

5 pm - Dinner reservations being taken. The electric outlet in our compartment doesn’t work. Got admission by the conductor to sit in an empty sleeping compartment (much more comfortable than ours) to reload the laptop. In the meantime (6:45 pm) our outlet is working again, our neighbor’s isn’t. Passing through yellow-brownish wide flat grassland of Western Texas now. Seeing groups of wild mustangs from time to time. Sun is about to set. Imagine: it takes the train about 30 hours just to pass through Texas, from El Paso to Texarkana.

7 pm - Dinner service was veeeery slow, much too few waiters and all a bit unorganized. We got our entrées at 8 pm and weren’t even asked about a ice tea refill or dessert. We had salad and a roll, then a small steak with baked potato and veggies (regular price: $ 25!) and beef short ribs in a peppery sauce with mashed potatoes and veggies.

Train stopped in Alpine/TX at 7:45 pm (8:45 CT) - on time. Have been there last spring when we toured Big Bend NP. Alpine is the birthplace of Dan Blocker (Hoss) of „Bonanza“, a quaint college town with a a vivid artists’ community. We’re now on Central Time, pretty confusing. Arizona did have Mountain Time but no Daylight Saving Time, then MT with DST and now we are on CT.

10 pm (CT) - When we got back from dinner our beds were made and it was hard to get something out of our bags. Pretty tight in our cell. Not sure yet who’ll climb up to the top …

4-1-14 - „CityTrip“

6 am - An alarm sound in our „cell“ got us fully awake, after some hustling and bustling since our arrival to San Antonio at 5 am. Power was switched off and then suddenly the alarm went off. Night hasn’t been too good anyway, just very few hours of sleep. Pretty sticky in the cell, plus a hard, narrow mattress.

7 am - Eventually a mechanic showed up but couldn’t do anything, the whistling alarm sound continued. So, we had to move all our luggage to another compartment. We gave no thought about going back to sleep. Train left San Antonio on time, now as the „Texas Eagle“, and we just passed the rodeo grounds and remembered when we attended this great event about four years ago. Gray skies and green trees now, some cattle. Thanks to a new talkative conductor we got to know that the train is "being hosted" on the trecks of other companies like Burlington Northern Santa Fe or Union Pacific.

9:30 am – Austin/TX - what a tiny little station building for the capital of Texas! Our new car attendant Simon is much more approachable than Lisa was before. Talking to him and with other guests, we noticed that there were more problems on the train (one guy was placed in the wrong part of the train, some A/C didn’t work, there was a bag mix-up…) and started to laugh about it. Also, we got to know that though the interior of the cars is updated, they are at least 30 years old. No wonder that always something needs repair!

10:30 am – Taylor/TX, famous for one of the best BBQ places in the whole state: Taylor Café. Our conductor makes announcements where we are and what’s special, which is nice. Train rather empty, flat landscape, fields and cattle pastures, much denser population. In total not really fascinating.

11:30 am - Temple/TX : large historic railroad station with a worth seeing collection of old cars and locomotives.

noon - Sausage on a pretzel roll for lunch, didn’t like it, should have taken the burger instead. Rough trecks now, very shaky ride. Green, but pretty monotonous landscape. We are at the front of the train since San Antonio, not at the tail anymore. Dining and lounge car are much closer. More and more oil pumps emerging, the landscape gets dryer and less green.

2:30 pm - Arrival Fort Worth - warm and humid. About 20 min. stay, but no internet around the station - getting uneasy.

3:30 pm - Dallas, station in the center of downtown. Simon, our young afroamerican-carribean car attendant, told us that he is „on call“ with AMTRAK and after a 48-hour-break he will have to jump on one of the four outgoing trains in Chicago, his hometown, whenever needed. Strenuous job, but he is laughing most of the time and pampering old and not so old ladies.

6:30 pm - Still in Texas. Took a nap after having labeled a couple of hundred of pictures. Still about 80 deg. F and high humidity, but Simon is always teasing us by updating us on the current Chicago temps, which is cruelsome. Swampy, woody green landscape.

6:45 pm - Marshall/TX - a magnificent historic station building, „Old South“ architecture and waiting passengers look like arisen from a scene of „Gone with the Wind“.

8:30 pm - Back from dinner. I took the turkey shank, the daily special, whereas P. was on the safe side to choose steak again. I could need a schnaps now. Bed is made and we are approaching Texarkana, our last stop in Texas, bordering Arkansas and Louisiana. Pitch-dark outside.

4-2-14 - Rain and boredom

7 am - Standing in the outskirts of St. Louis. Freight Trains ahead of us which move slowly. Many. Have been on time up to this point, but now trecks are jammed. The further we came to the East the worse trecks became. Slept with a couple of intermissions, train was honking all the time in the denser populated areas, but at least no alarm or other accidents. Rain outside.

8:30 am - Arrival to St. Louis, departure at 9 am, one hour delayed. The fifth conductor is now in service, again, a talkative guy.
In St. Louis, called „Gateway to the West“, the Lewis & Clark expedition - a military corps commissioned by president Jefferson - started its operation to explore the then unknown West. Meriweather Lewis recruited people (scouts etc.) in St. Louis and got provisions and boats before they started their adventure in spring 1804 nearby at the confluence of the Missouri and Mississippi River. Underneith the famous St. Louis Arch there is an interesting historic museum explaining everything about the Lewis & Clark expedition. When we did research for the Lewis&Clark Bicentennial 2003-2006 we even were allowed to see some of the original pages of L&C’s diary in the archives of that museum.
BTW, we scretched another U.S. State from our list: Arkansas. Our criterium is that we’ve at least slept for one night in a state to „have been there“. Now it’s just 7 U.S. States left on our bucket list: Kentucky, West Virginia, Alaska, Hawaii (the latter should be done next), and – we have been there but not overnight – New Jersey, Iowa and Delaware.

9:30 am - Leaving Missouri for Illinois. Alton is our first stop, followed by some similarly undistinctive stops on the way. Pouring rain now.

11 am - Ready with picture labeling. A passenger, a musician from Austin, is entertaining people in the Sightseer Lounge with Americana/Bluegrass music. Wished they would be offering more „entertainment“ on the train (like videos, music or similar).

11:15 am - Illinois’ State Capital Springfield, „Home of Abraham Lincoln“. We just passed F.L. Wright’s Dana-Thomas House, an architectural beauty accomplished in 1908 and saw the fantastic building of the Abe Lincoln Presidential Center in the distance.

Noon - Last meal on the train: Angus Burger. We’vee been hungry since we didn’t eat breakfast. Met with a couple from Indiana (South Bend) visiting their daughter and grandson in Temple/TX. They didn’t want to fly, though they had to change train in Chicago again.
Since Springfield we are mostly following the old course of Historic Rte. 66. There are constantly problems with the „governing railroads“, delay is adding up to over 2 hours by now and it seems to take forever to get into Chicago.

4 pm: Arrival in Chicago with a 2-hour delay. Finally. No snow, even a bit of sun, but considerably cooler. Baggage claim takes another 30 min.