Stopover in the "Windy City"

From New Orleans we arrived to Chicago around 10 am, a bit delayed, but not too badly. Knowing our way around from previous visits, we took the train into downtown, which took almost an hour, but only cost a day pass for each of us for $ 5!

We wanted to see, at least on a whirlwind tour, what work to expect in fall, when we'll return for research for our Chicago guidebook. And, because of the beautiful blue skies and sun (and not much lower temps than in N.O. previously, but dry heat this time), wanted to go on a photo tour, too.

That's what we did in the approximately four hours we had, didn't sit much, didn't eat much (but a Chicago Hot Dog, which is served without ketchup!), but walked and walked and walked,,,

 First, through downtown to find a post office,,, then to the new Architecture Center (which has moved since our last visit in 2017) - photo below, left), and underneith the L, the elevated train tracks, which are so typical for Chicago (on the right photo). Downtown Chicago is renowned for its architecture and public art.

 

 

We walked towards the lakefront, over the train tracks, to the Buckingham Fountain (below) and the gorgeous Millenium Park, passing the Art Museum, the Lurie Gardens, Pritzger Pavilion by Frank Gehry, "The Bean" (Cloud Gate) by Anish Kapoor, and, the Crown Fountain by Jaume Plensa. 

 Buckingham Fountain

Crown Fountain

"The Bean"

Pritzger Pavilion

Lurie Gardens

The Chicago River (left) sparkled in bright turquoise color, and, compared to decades ago, seems to have become a clean and attractive part, and, a vital line of the city. Lots is going on there, besides boat rides being offered, people kayak, sit along the riverfront in cafés, pubs and restaurants, lots of green and space to relax. Views are great, too, e.g. towards Marina City (2nd photo below), Chicago's first landmark, twin towers built in the early 1960ies, and copied many times, e.g. in Augsburg ("Maiskolben" - Hotelturm).

 

On Wacker Drive, fantastic new architecture:

Time flew and, unfortunately, we had to head back to the airport in the afternoon. Rarely have been in Chicago in summer before, and, therefore thoroughly enjoyed the couple of hours we spent. We'll be back soon!

 

 

Though, our flight was pretty much on time and uneventful, it wasn't really pleasant. Had one of these planes with a 3x3x3 seat configuration, and, plane was filled to capacity. Not much room, even in Eco Plus, no shut-eye all night long. Instead of "chicken or pasta?" for dinner it was "chicken or stir-fried veggies" (wow!) - but same poor quality/taste. Breakfast? The usual, which is, frankly, an imposition!

Last day in New Orleans

Monday - our last full day in N.O. - started with breakfast at Café du Monde, famous beignets and New Orleans coffee in the Riverwalk Outlets Center. Afterwards, having a little time at disposal, we checked out Piazza d’Italia again (photo below), a famous  public space of Postmodern architecture designed by Charles Moore 1978. Also, next week the new addition to the Aquarium (photo far below), the Insectarium, will open in an expansion, which we wanted to see at least from the outside.

 

 

 

 

At 10 am we were ready for our tour at The Vue - the new immersive experience and observation deck on top of the former World Trade Center (which was standing empty and dilapidated for many years)  - Vue is a great new experience with informative exhibitions on the first floor (photos below), with touch panels, films, interactive demonstrations, a cooking show, etc. followed by a ride on the elevator to the top. There, modern touchscreens invite to explore the sights in view  outside. This is a good sight to get an overview and first introduction!

 

Since we wanted to explore the riverfront, the Crescent Park (left photo) and the neighborhoods of Bywater and Marigny, we skipped lunch at Napoleon House and walked all the way to JAMNOLA, another new attraction in town. Bywater has become an attractive neighborhood with a close-knit community, little mom&pop stores, quaint modest cafés, pubs, a lbrewery, a record store, etc. Especially remarkable is the architecture there!

„Joy, Art & Music“ is the motto of JAMNOLA and many local artists are involved in this funny arts complex (photos right and below) with 17 immersive art rooms of all kinds, most of them with some sort of educational purpose. They showcase the iconic art, music, food and theatrics of the city through the eyes of over 30 local artists.

 

 

Art and architecture - the neighborhood is architecturally highly interesting as well. Not only Bywater, but also the neighboring Marigny is interesting to stroll through. We continued on to Frenchmen Street (photos below) with our fav record store - the „Music Factory“ - the Frenchmen Hotel (where we stayed when we were doing our first research about New Orleans in the 90ies). Most jazz clubs and music venues seem to have survived the pandemic.

The black good-looking country singer on the photo, standing on the roof of his truck, we found at the French Market, on the way back, same for the „stillife“ on a balcony below.

The Four Seasons Hotel had invited us to a round of cocktails in their fancy Chandelier Bar. It was cool there - compared to outside temps around 90 deg F, and high humidity - and cocktails tasted delicious ("Nadacolada" - an alcohol-free version on the photo), but this was just the beginning of a great last evening. 

Our last dinner was arranged at Herbsaint in the Central Business District and that was probably the best one we had! Local fish/shrimp ceviche with cucumber followed by flaky fish and a finger-lickingly good banana tart at the end. Super-good and comfy casual atmosphere!

It’s been a wonderful, interesting, though strenuous three days in New Orleans, we walked around 55 kilometers (25 mi) and our feet were hurting, but our brains wer full of many interesting experiences, conversations, sights and impressions, that we almost didn’t want to leave on Tuesday morning at 5 am by car service to the airport (photos below)

 

Good eats and a lot of green space

Sunday morning - how spoiled we are! Breakfast at Brennans is a legend in New Orleans. Brennan's was founded in 1946 by Owen Brennan and the family nowadays operates a row of restaurants in town. The original Brennan's, a pink building on Royal Street, is the place where the famous Banana Foster was invented, and, it's always a big show to get it prepared table-side (see photos). 

 

Cocktail for breakfast is a "must", too. We had the Eggs Hussarde, another Brennan's original (Eggs Benedict with their special sauce), and Eggs Frattau (scrambled eggs, andouille bolognese, tomato jam, triple cream) - both delicious! What makes Brennan's special as well (and well worth the elevated prices) is the exquisite, super-attentive service!

Afterwards, the red Canal Streetcar brought us to the lakefront, to City Park, the green lung of New Orleans. First stop was the newly opened Louisiana Childrens’ Museum with its interesting exhibitions in an airy, bright building surrounded by greenery (photos below). 

 

 The Besthoff Sculpture Garden surrounding the New Orleans Museum of Art (photos above) was also expanded and is consisting of two parts now connected by a bridge. Arts and nature are in perfect harmony here! The whole City Park is a peaceful oasis and popular family destination, with ponds (to kajak or rent a swan boat), with huge old life oaks overhung by Spanish Moss, with the Botanical Garden and a new branch of Café du Monde.

Back in the French Quarter - where we found this pink vehicle (photo) on the street - we checked out the crowded French Market with its vendors of souvenirs and sauces, spices and drinks, and listened to the drums on Kongo Square before we headed to dinner at Tableau (braised lamb on the photo far below) - also, a Brennan restaurant! - and to Jazz at the Preservation Hall (no photos allowed!). Called it a day pretty late.

French Market:

Kongo Square:

Dinner at Tableau: