The drive from Corning into the Finger Lakes region was beautiful, even with cloudy skies, also, thanks to our great "guide" Cindy, who knew all the picturesque back roads. Passing farm stands with maple sirup and honey, Mennonite farms, dairies, wineries and breweries, and, with breaks at two smaller lakes, Lamoka and Waneta Lakes (picture), we arrived to Keuka Lake, one of the officially declared eleven glacial "Finger Lakes". First stop there was Hammondsport and the Curtiss Aviation Museum, one of the most famous aviation museums in the U.S. focused on Glenn H. Curtiss, aviation pioneer and early motorcycle manufacturer. The museum includes a sizeable collection of early aircraft and motorcycles, which illustrate the innovative genius of Glenn Curtiss.
The centerpiece of the motorcycle collection is an exact reproduction of the famous 8-cylinder motorcycle which earned Curtiss the title of "Fastest Man on Earth" in 1907 with a land-speed record of 136.4 mph. Also, Curtiss - a jack of all trades - made the first officially-observed, 1-km flight on July 4th, 1908. It was the first officially witnessed flight in North America. In addition to planes, there is a seaplane, the U.S.Navy's first airplane, a "Flying Boat" as well as different automobiles and boats.
Sticking to the point, our next stop was the Finger Lakes Boating Museum. It's all about the rich boat building history in the region, the many boat-builders and the distinctive boats they made. The collection consists of more than 150 boats built by many of the 40+ commercial builders throughout the Finger Lakes Region during the last century. Besides canoes, rowboats, hydroplanes and sailboats, the restauration workshop (where also courses and workshops take place) and the building itself are equally interesting. The property was home to the former Taylor Winery and there are still the old barrels in the basement and a lot of solid oak doors and wall panels and ceilings.
In the Village Tavern Restaurant and Inn - in downtown Hammondsport, which was voted coolest small town in America – we regained enough energy by eating a meatball sandwich (pic) and a Greek Burger (with feta) to continue with wine tasting in the afternoon. Spectacular views towards the lake all the time, just wish we would have had blue skies in addition. But, at least, it was still over 20 deg. C warm.
In the Heron Hills Winery, which just had celebrated its 40th anniversary, we met with Barry, the winemaker, after a regular tasting, for a wine cellar tour and some more interesting barrel tasting. Riesling is the region's flagship varietal and, mostly Northern European varieties are planted. Besides Riesling it's most notable Gruener Veltliner, Gewurztraminer and Blaufränkisch (the latter one of the few reds which are growing well). In general, it's mostly white wines which are being produced in this special cool climate around the Finger Lakes.
On to Dr. Frank Wine Cellars for another tasting, passing several other wineries and breweries. Dr. Konstantin Frank was the one who probably made the New York wine industry to what it is today. A European immigrant from the Ukraine, Dr. Frank - with a Ph.D. in viticulture - and his family arrived in the U.S. in 1951. He introduced proper rootstock basing on his research for growing the delicate European vinifera grape varieties in cold climates. In 1962 he founded Vinifera Wine Cellars, which quickly earned a reputation for spectacular Rieslings. Today it's grandson Frederick Frank, who took over and his daughter will continue the family tradition. Frederick was very eager to practise his German and let us try his wines, different Rieslings, but also some rare Eastern European varietals and a great champagne.
Stopping by at the Mennonite Store in Penn Yan, another little town on the northern tip of Keuka Lake, Cindy picked up a whole box of picnic items for our dinner – sandwiches, soups, bisquits, muffins, cake. This shop had an enormous variety of items, mostly produce made by Mennonites, therefore you could also get Sauerkraut, Kassler and sausages there. Especially, the baking goods department - different flours, aromas, toppings, nuts and stuff - is heaven, but, also, the adjacent bakery, operated by Mennonites, is fantastic and prices really reasonable.
We would have had problems to find the cabin, where we spent the night, but, fortunately, Cindy showed us. What a surprise: A 3-bedroom cabin, directly on the lake, with a patio, a fire pit, its own boating pier, very luxurious, fully equipped and very tastefully furnished. The cabin is one of many luxurious properties "Finger Lakes Premier Properties" is renting out in the lakes area. We just wished, we could have spent a couple of days here instead of just 14 hours. But, at least, we were having a quiet, peaceful evening (though working), sitting on the patio, having a glass of Dr. Frank's wine, and listening to the waves. Life can be good.
Keuka Lake sunset:
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